DETAILS: Verona

GETTING THERE: Verona is in northeastern Italy, about 70 miles west of Venice and 100 miles east of Milan. Trains run directly from Rome (about five hours) and Milan (about two hours). The price of a standard first-class one-way ticket is about $30 from Milan, about $111 from Rome on Trenitalia ( http://www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html).

WHEN TO GO: Verona has a central European climate, with cold winters and hot summers. Spring and fall offer the most temperate weather to enjoy the city's outdoor life, architectural sites and festivals. June through September is opera season in the Roman Arena. Around Valentine's Day, the city is also alive with concerts, exhibits and activities, many with a romantic theme.

WHERE TO STAY: The Hotel Gabbia D'Oro (4-A Corso Porta Borsari, 011-39-045-800-3060, http://www.hotelgabbiadoro.it) is not cheap, but it offers a central location in old Verona and with the frills of a small luxury hotel in an 18th-century palazzo. The price of a double room, from about $343, depending on season, includes a gourmet breakfast. Other centrally located quality hotels are the Torcolo (3 Vicolo Listone, 011-39-045-800-7512, http://www.hoteltorcolo.it) near the Roman Arena, where doubles start at about $109 per night, and the Hotel Aurora (Piazza Erbe, 011-39-045-594-717, http://www.hotelaurora.biz), where doubles with breakfast start at about $155.

WHERE TO EAT: The Osteria Sgarzarie (14-A Corte Sgarzarie) serves simple, delicious Veronese and Northern Italian fare, from pumpkin ravioli to risottos and horse stew in an atmosphere that manages to be modern, classy and homey. Or take the ancient Ponte Pietra footbridge across the Adige for a dinner of Veronese polentas with the locals at the traditional and friendly trattoria La Stueta (4-B Via Redentore). Prices at both are about $31 to $39 per person, plus wine. Al Calmiere (10 Piazza San Zeno), about a 15-minute walk from the center of old Verona, is a meat lover's institution: a lively family place with a roving meat cart and selections of beef and horse. About $47 per person, plus wine.

WHAT TO SEE: Verona's one-price tourist pass, the Verona Card, covers admission to 16 historic sites, museums, churches and points of interest, including the Roman Arena, Roman Theater, Castelvecchio, Torre dei Lamberti, church of San Zeno Maggiore and Juliet's House and Tomb. The card (sold at many tourist sites) costs $12.50 per person for one day, $18.75 for three days. The Arena Opera season has outdoor performances in the Roman Arena from June through September. See schedules and buy tickets ($29 to $309) at http://www.arena.it.

INFORMATION: Provincia di Verona, http://www.tourism.verona.it.

-- R.V.C.