Tackle Box in Georgetown

This new seafood shack would shock New Englanders. It looks right, with its no-frills picnic tables and chalkboard menus of lobster dinners to go. But wood-grilled tilapia? Hush puppies and braised greens? What kind of place is this?

It's the brainchild of chef Barton Seaver. And though it's inspired by the coastal takeouts of Maine, Tackle Box is not meant to be a clone. The goal is to offer the same kind of sustainable seafood Seaver serves at Hook, his fine-dining restaurant next door, in a more casual setting at lower prices.

For appetizers, there are grilled and fried oysters ($9), clam chowder ($6) and peel-and-eat shrimp ($12). There are also shrimp ($10), clam ($12) and lobster ($19) rolls. And thankfully, no liberties have been taken with the latter. The lobster roll is a classic, with good chunks of meat, a little mayo and no filler, served on a toasted potato bun. (Our only complaint: It could have been a bit bigger.)

The main attraction, though, is the Maine Meal ($13): a choice of fish, grilled or fried, with two sides and a sauce. The offerings will change with the seasons. On the grill menu now, you'll find clean-tasting rainbow trout and richer bluefish instead of the traditional Atlantic cod and halibut, both of which are on the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch's "avoid" list. Of the fried options, choose clams or oysters, which are crisp outside and meltingly soft inside, just as they should be. The little bay scallops ended up rubbery and flavorless. The sauces that go with them -- basil-walnut pesto, grilled lemon and classic tartar -- are creative and, with the exception of an odd chipotle-spiked marinara, a delight.

In the days after Tackle Box's opening last month, the sides were a bit uneven. The regular fries were a little soggy and the grilled asparagus didn't travel well (though they no doubt would be better if you ate them there). Ironically, you're best sticking to the non-traditional items, such as those hush puppies. Executive chef Rob Bechtold, a Louisiana native, adds baking powder, freshly grated onion and chopped sage to create the pillowy corn puffs. The braised greens had salty oomph from ham hocks, salt pork and house-cured bacon.

Whatever bumps are not smoothed out over time will be forgotten if you order dessert. Tackle Box makes a blueberry pie ($6) with a tender, sweet crust and berries popping with flavor. Look for peach-ginger and strawberry rhubarb later in the season.

-- Jane Black

Tackle Box, 3245 M St. NW, 202-337-8269. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily