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INSIDER: B&G Oysters

Sleek and airy with cutting-edge cuisine, B&G is the antithesis of the old Oyster House. Star chef Barbara Lynch does offer terrific versions of the classics -- fried Ipswich clams and lobster bisque -- but what the locals line up for is more-innovative fare such as the tempura grey sole with cucumber, red chilies and Thai basil, or a seat at the bar where they can watch chefs expertly shuck oysters drawn from the restaurant's master list of nearly 200 varieties. Entrees $25 to $29.

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· 550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550.

Galleries

TOURIST: Newbury Street

This eight blocks used to be the place for collectors. But in recent years rents have skyrocketed as high-end fashion stores including Jimmy Choo, Burberry and Chanel have moved in, encouraging smaller galleries to relocate.

INSIDER: SoWa (South of Washington Street)

Once a warehouse district, this edge of the trendy South End has become a haven for artists. There are nearly two dozen galleries, most lining Harrison Avenue. First stops should include the Bernard Toale Gallery, a minimalist, contemporary showplace that was one of the first to abandon Newbury Street for SoWa. In the same building but far more experimental is the Samson Projects. Owners Camilo Alvarez and Alexandra Cherubini show both commercial (read: salable) art and more controversial pieces from emerging artists. This year's annual SoWa Art Walk, where galleries open their doors and restaurants display local artists and offer discounts, takes place May 17-18. If you miss it, visit the first Friday of each month when SoWa Artist Guild members open their studios at 450 Harrison Ave.

· Bernard Toale Gallery (450 Harrison Ave., 617-482-2477, http://www.bernardtoalegallery.com); Samson Projects (450 Harrison Ave., 617-357-7177, http://www.samsonprojects.com). For information on the SoWa Art Walk: http://www.sowaartwalk.com. First Friday info: http://www.sowaartistsguild.com.

Historic Homes

TOURIST: Beacon Hill

With its Federal-style homes and gaslit streets, Beacon Hill remains Boston's toniest neighborhood. Former General Electric chief executive Jack Welch and Sen. John Kerry are two of the area's famous residents. But few without their extraordinary means can stay for long.

INSIDER: Bay Village

Sandwiched between the Massachusetts Turnpike and Chinatown, Bay Village is harder to get to than Beacon Hill. But this tiny neighborhood is equally picturesque. The houses, most dating from the 1820s, look like miniature versions of their Beacon Hill cousins: They were built for the craftsmen who built the grand homes on the other side of the Common.


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