DETAILS: Stockholm and Its Archipelago

GETTING THERE: In the summer, round-trip fare from the Washington area to Arlanda Airport, about 25 miles north of Stockholm, starts at about $1,040. The fastest way to Stockholm Central Station is the 20-minute Arlanda Express train ( http://www.arlandaexpress.com); one-way fare is about $37.

WHERE TO STAY: Dalaro and the islands of the archipelago are great to visit, but lodgings are often scarce. It's best to base yourself in Stockholm and take side trips.

The Grand Hotel (S. Blasieholmshamnen 8, 011-46-8-679-35-60, http://www.grandhotel.se) is stately and swanky, and an easy walk to many of Stockholm's attractions, including Old Town, the Royal Palace and the arts-oriented island of Skeppsholmen. Rates from $300 a night.

The new Best Western Time Hotel (Vanadisvagen 12, 011-46-8-545-473-00, http://www.timehotel.se) sits in a largely residential neighborhood near downtown and waterside walking trails. Rates from $182. About one mile from Old Town and City Hall, the Hotel Birger Jarl (Tulegatan 8, 800-804-6835. http://www.birgerjarl.se) receives kudos for style and location. Rates from $227.

If you wish to overnight on Dalaro, you can find lodging at the Smadalaro Gard (011-46-8-5714-1919, http://www.smadalarogard.se; from $258), a 19th-century converted manor house outside town, and STF Dalaro Hostel (Tullbacken 4, 011-46-8-5015-1636; from about $34).

WHERE TO EAT: Ostermalm Saluhall, at the corner of Humlegardsgatan and Nybrogatan, is Stockholm's foodie haven, boasting dozens of food stalls and cafes under one roof in the tony neighborhood of Ostermalm. Try seafood of all stripes, cheese, breads, vegetables, chocolates and, if you must, smoked reindeer meat. Lisa Elmqvist, a famous fishmonger, has made this food hall home since the 1920s. A cafe by the same name was added in the same spot in recent decades. A full lunch runs $30 or more.

Backfickan (Jakobs Torg 12) is the most casual restaurant in Stockholm's Opera House; try such Swedish specialties as herring or reindeer. Main courses from about $22. Locals' favorite Prinsen (Master Samuelsgatan 4) specializes in traditional Swedish food, such as veal with lingonberry preserves. Some of the restaurant's paintings were payment from artists who couldn't afford their bill. Entrees from about $34.

ACTIVITIES: Stockholm is arrayed across 14 islands, though you can sometimes pass from one to another without noticing. The tiny Skeppsholmen is one of my favorites. The island hosts the Moderna Museet (Slupskjulsvagen 7-9, 011-46-8-5195-5200, http://www.modernamuseet.se; about $13), a modern art museum featuring outdoor sculptures by Alexander Calder and Niki de St. Phalle. Gamla Stan, the capital city's Old Town, is full of tiny shops, cafes, 800 years of history, the Royal Palace and the Riksdag, or Parliament.

Djurgarden, a former royal hunting ground, is Stockholm's answer to Central Park. There's plenty of space to be alone and ample room to be among people at the Skansen folk museum.

STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO: Several ferries and chartered boats serve the larger islands in the Baltic Sea, mostly from Stockholm but also from smaller towns, including Dalaro. Waxholmsbolaget ( http://www.waxholmsbolaget.se), a major carrier, runs ferries to Dalaro and dozens of outlying islands. Schedules and access depend on the season. Timetables are available in Stockholm at the Waxholmsbolaget ticket office outside the Grand Hotel.

Dalaro has great lanes for strolling and nice beaches for lolling, as well as a small downtown and a former Baltic Sea customs house that is now a museum. You can also take a boat to Dalaro Skans, an offshore fort that guarded Stockholm's harbor from the 1650s to the 1850s.

From Dalaro, popular islands for day trips include Kymmendo, which features the cottage built (with help) by author August Strindberg; Orno, a nature haven; and Uto, which has a hotel, restaurant and youth hostel. Farther out is the mini-archipelago of Huvudskar, a collection of about 150 isles and outcroppings known for its prime sunbathing spots.

The island of Fjardlang is a national park, but with few of the frills of its American counterparts. The island has a youth hostel and campsites but no shops or restaurants.

SWEDEN IN D.C.: Through June 8, the Swedish Embassy in Washington is hosting "Discover Sweden," a series of exhibits, events and performances at the House of Sweden (2900 K St. NW, 202-467-2600). Exhibits are open Wednesday through Sunday noon to 6 p.m., and all events are free. For a schedule and more information, visit http://www.swedenabroad.com.

INFO: VisitSweden, 212-885-9700, http://www.visitsweden.com.

-- E.J.