DETAILS: Indianapolis

GETTING THERE: Nonstop flights from the Washington area to Indy are currently running for less than $200. Northwest, for example, has flights from Reagan National starting at $167; US Airway flies the same route for $174.

WHERE TO STAY: The Stone Soup Inn (1304 N. Central Ave., 866-639-9550, http://www.stonesoupinn.com) is housed in a 1901 manse in historic Old Northside. For $85 a night, I stayed in the SW Loft, which had a narrow bed but a full kitchen, attached bathroom and easy access to the free soda and snacks downstairs. To sleep among art, the Craftsman Room ($85) has Mission-style antiques and Arts and Crafts designs. The inn's sister properties are equally appealing: The Villa Inn (1456 N. Delaware St., 866- 626-8500, http://www.thevillainn.com) has six deluxe rooms (from $200), a full spa and a restaurant; the Looking Glass Inn (1319 N. New Jersey St., 866-639-9550; from $105) offers charming rooms with names like the Willow Room. Indianapolis Marriott Downtown (350 W. Maryland St., 317- 822-3500, http://www.indymarriott.com) is within a short walk of White River State Park. Its Indianapolis Zoo package includes one night's room, zoo entrance for two and breakfast for $149.

WHERE TO EAT: Mikado (148 S. Illinois St., 317-972-4180) is a sushi bar, not a sports bar. Japanese lunches start at $8.95, dinners at $14. Locals rave about Cafe Patachou, which has five locations; Patachou on the Park (225 W. Washington St., 317-632- 0765), for example, has a lovely setting by the capitol. The casual-gourmet menu tomato artichoke soup ($3.25-$4.75) and lemon tarts ($6.25). R Bistro (888 Massachusetts Ave., 317-423-0312) sits among the art galleries of Mass. Ave. Entrees include chicken legs with figs, honey and vinegar ($18.95) and tomato tartare with tomato water ($7.25). Enjoy a Middle Eastern meal and an apres-dinner hookah at the Egyptian Cafe (6265 Carrollton Ave., 317-255- 4400) in Broad Ripple. A falafel dinner goes for $9.95, beef shawarma for $6.95 and hookahs for $7.95 or $8.95.

WHAT TO DO: Museum-hop, of course. Start at Canal Walk and White River State Park, considered Indy's Cultural Corridor. Institutions include the Indiana State Museum and the Indiana History Center. Info: http://www.discovercanal.com and http://www.inwhiteriver.com. The Indianapolis Museum of Art (4000 Michigan Rd., 317- 923-1331, http://www.ima-art.org; free) has more than 50,000 works, plus the Oldfields--Lilly House and Gardens, a 26-acre estate and museum. Bike or stroll the Indianapolis Cultural Trail (317-713-3333, http://www.indyculturaltrail.org); follow the painted line or stay on the completed portion around Mass. Ave. If the sound of engines is calling, take the $3 bus tour around the track of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway (4790 W. 16th St., 317-492-6784, http://www.indianapolismotorspeedway.com).

INFO: Indianapolis Convention & Visitors Association, 800-323-4639, http://www.indy.org.

-- A.S.