My Own Weekly Slice of the Jersey Shore

When the dough feels right, I divide it in half, coat the halves in olive oil and transfer them to bowls to rise for an hour or so. If I don't use all the dough in one session, I'll wrap and store it in the fridge to make a fast midweek dinner.

Even though I've made pies many times, I sometimes still need to run questions by Dave via Google Chat:

Me: Making dough. What if it's too sticky?

Him: Add flour.

Me: I'm only using one round. How do I have to store the other one in the fridge?

Him: Wrap it in plastic?

Me: When I refrigerate it other times, it comes out crusty and it's not as good as when I make it in one session.

Him: It's because your fridge is older than you. How are they coming out of your oven?

Me: Terrific, but it's kinda smoky in my apartment.

Him: It's alright since it's just you. When are you going to redo your kitchen??!

Because I write about food and restaurants, I also have been able to ask nerdy pizza questions of the chefs who make pies for a living. Bebo's Roberto Donna was the most brusque: How could I not know about "00" flour and San Marzano tomatoes! But Rustico's Frank Morales talked about the effects of sugar vs. honey in the crust, whether to let the dough rise overnight and anything else I wanted to quiz him on. He's very patient.

For home cooks, the pros recommend the California-style approach, with its emphasis on ingredients. My favorite these days is a three-cheese pie -- red or white -- which gives me an excuse to visit Cheesetique in Del Ray and talk shop with the cheese ladies behind the counter.

When I'm feeling really nostalgic, I'll make a clam pie. Not only does it remind me of Brooklyn, it also reminds me of going to the fishmonger with my dad. At Cannon's in Georgetown, the fishmonger plays castanets with the clams like they do back in Jersey, to make sure the mollusks are still alive and well at the time of sale.

I miss those days. But making my own pizza makes me feel a little bit closer to home.

Melissa McCart is a high school English teacher who writes the Counter Intelligence blog at http://melissamccart.wordpress.com.