By Jane Black
Washington Post Staff Writer
Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Ask where to eat pizza in town, and just about everyone will recommend 2 Amys or Pizzeria Paradiso. Good choices, both. But the Washington pizza universe has other bright stars. Five picks for not-to-miss pies:

Comet Ping Pong, 5037 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-364-0404

· Ace, $13 (one to two servings)

The pizzas here are proof that simple food is the hardest to pull off -- and the most delicious. The free-form pies look rustic, yet enormous thought has gone into making them just right. The dough is a blend of whole-wheat and white flours, the char comes from an igloo-shaped oven that reaches 700 degrees, and many crusts are brushed with olive oil and dusted with herbs or spices before the chef even reaches for the toppings.

And oh, those toppings. Most are handmade or sourced locally. You can create your own combinations, but it's smart to let the kitchen put together bright and original pies such as the Ace, which features slightly bitter braised greens (which vary depending on what's in season), toasted walnut halves and a sprinkle of fragrant fontina and Parmesan cheeses.

Mia's Pizza, 4926 Cordell Ave., Bethesda, 301-718-6427

· Il Forno, $12.75 (one to two servings)

Pizza joints usually fall into one of two categories: gourmet or no-frills. Mia's warm and bright ambiance caters to both, making it a Bethesda destination for an early dinner with the family or a stylish weeknight date.

So does the food. There are traditional pies for the little ones and designer combinations, such as the barbecued chicken and smoked Gouda, for power yuppies. All have a dense, chewy crust that bubbles in the wood-fired oven. The best offer a balance of flavors; the Il Forno, our pick, is an elegant pie with a smear of tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella cheese, briny olives, red onion and cloudlike dollops of ricotta with spinach.

Moroni & Brothers, 4811 Georgia Ave. NW, 202-829-2090, http://www.moroniandbrothers.com

· Diavola, $10.95 (one to two servings)

Love Pizzeria Paradiso but hate the lines? This Salvadoran/wood-fired pizza joint offers the same style and caliber of pie without the wait. Co-owner Jose Velasquez learned his trade at Paradiso, where he worked for 15 years (wife and co-owner Reyna Isabella Acosta still works there). But here, Velasquez has made pizza his own. The dough is slightly sweet and very crisp, thanks to a generous brushing with fruity olive oil. Most popular, and for good reason, is the Diavola, piled high with sweet and jalapeño peppers, mozzarella, sausage and red onion. Wash it down with a Regia beer from Velasquez's native land for a new version of pizza paradise.

Pasta Plus, 209 Gorman Ave., Laurel, 301-498-5100, http://www.pastaplusrestaurant.com

· Buon-Gustaia, $9.95 (one to two servings)

The minute you step inside, you know the pizza is going to be good. The waft from the imported wood-burning oven smells like a real Italian mom-and-pop pizzeria, maybe in Pisa or Cortona. Though it is tucked into a humdrum strip mall, next to an Arby's and between two highways, the place feels like the real deal. The tables are laid with heavy white cloths and the waiters are expert. Ask yours for a recommendation or choose the pizza that's true to its name, Buon-Gustaia (good taste). Its firm crust easily supports the house's sweet tomato sauce and thick slices of Italian sausage, plus pepperoni and pancetta. The only inauthentic touch is the pie's overly generous amount of fresh mozzarella. But it's hard to complain about that.

Lost Dog Cafe and Gourmet Pizza Deli, 5876 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, 703-237-1552, http://www.lostdogcafe.com

· Pizza di Mare, $16.95 (small; serves two to three)

It's hard to believe that a non-tomato-sauced pie with so many toppings could be light and satisfying, but the whizzes at this busy Westover neighborhood joint manage to pull it off. They start with a double-rise dough that is proofed for at least three hours and baked in Lost Dog's convection ovens.

The result is a crisp, tender and almost airy crust that stands up to a slathering of garlic butter, a generous layer of real crabmeat, laces of onion and green bell pepper, buttery bay scallops and small shrimp that are not overcooked. The Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses get nicely browned on top. Enjoy it with a Blue Moon Belgian White beer or Clemson Tiger Tea, which combines the cafe's special lemonade and brewed iced tea.