DETAILS: Israel

GETTING THERE: Flights from Washington to Tel Aviv all require a connection and range from 14 to 20 hours, with round-trip prices generally in the $1,100 to $1,300 range.

GETTING AROUND: Renting a car is your best bet to reach zimmers in out-of-the-way areas. Although Israelis have a reputation for being reckless drivers, I didn't find that to be the case. Early on, oncoming drivers flashed their lights at us during the daytime, a reminder to keep headlights on at all times. Highway signs are written in Hebrew, Arabic and English. (You'll know you're approaching dicey terrain when signs change to Hebrew only; I discovered as much as we neared Gaza.)

Major car rental options are available at Ben-Gurion airport. Rates can go as low as $25 a day, but auto insurance is mandatory for rentals and will roughly double your bill. Also, gas costs about $8 a gallon. When it comes time to fill up at the pump, it's not simply a matter of pressing the fuel grade of choice; monitors flash instructions in Hebrew only and require that you enter your passport and license plate numbers before buying gas.

WHAT TO TAKE: At the top of your list should be a GSM (Global System for Mobile) phone; you can buy a SIM (Subscriber Identity Module) card at the airport or in the city. Also, carry a GPS navigator -- available from most car rentals -- and bring a map. Finally, bring shampoo and conditioner; many zimmers supply neither.

THE ZIMMERS:

· In Ramat Negev, a central region of the Negev Desert, Naot Farm (M.A. Ramat Hanegev 85515, 011-972-54-4218788, http://www.naotfarm.co.il; $212 per night double, including breakfast) is about two miles from the junction near Telalim, on Road 40. Along with hiking trails, area attractions include an alpaca farm, Avdat National Park (which showcases the remains of an ancient city established by Nabatean merchants) and David Ben-Gurion's desert home. Carmey Avdat Farm (011-972-8-6535177, http://www.carmey-avdat.co.il; weekday rates begin at $136 double) has seven zimmers overlooking vineyards, a winery and a store where zimmer owner Eyal Izrael sells his metalwork, mainly accessories for wine lovers.

· In the Galilee, Ken BaHula (P.O. Box 3 Yesud Hama'ala 12105, 04-6800790, http://www.kenbahula.israel.net; weekday rates start at $134 double), in an agricultural community overlooking ice-capped Mount Hermon, has a homey feel. The owners will lend their bikes to let you explore the Hula nature reserve nearby. Breakfast is an extra $15 per person. Nearby, in the 126-year-old town of Rosh Pina, a local artist, Nili Friedman, runs Pina Barosh (Rehov HaHalutsim 8, 011-972-4-6937028, http://www.pinabarosh.com; the site is still being translated into English, but ask for co-owner Tal Ben-David, who speaks solid English; rates start at $150 double, including breakfast) on the grounds of her family's historic farmhouse. Along with roomy suites and an outdoor Jacuzzi, there's a restaurant. Chateau Provence (Moshav Ramot, 011-972-4-6731789, http://www.6731789.com; midweek rates start at $239 double, with breakfast), in the Golan Heights, offers a good balance between cozy home appeal and spa luxury. Along with a view of the Sea of Galilee, there's a flat-screen TV, kitchen area and Jacuzzi.

WHERE TO EAT: In the Negev, the realization that you're in a no man's land will hit sooner or later. So will hunger. For dinner, drive about six miles from Telalim Junction to Havat Nahal-Boker (011-972-8-6573483, http://www.hnbw.net), or Boker Valley Vineyards farm. The restaurant offers a lavish if pricey buffet dinner at about $29 a person. In the Galilee, a retired high school teacher, Nimer Nimer (Kfar Chorfish, Upper Galilee, 011-972-4-9977256), offers a taste of Druze life in the region through meals at his home. The visit includes a conversation about Druze traditions and a meal that includes pita, stuffed grape leaves and cheeses. Call in advance and speak slowly; Nimer speaks limited English.

INFORMATION: Weekend ( http://weekend.co.il) and Accommodation in Israel ( http://zimmer.co.il) have good information and links to zimmers. If the zimmer's site includes an option to view its pages in English, and if photos look appealing, the greater the chances you've found a good one.

For general information on Israel: Israel Ministry of Tourism, http://www.goisrael.com.

-- L.S.