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Designer Yves Saint Laurent Dies at 71

Yves Saint Laurent, 71, the French clothing designer who was an emperor of world fashion, and was credited with revolutionizing the way women looked and were looked upon, died Sunday, June 1, 2008, at his home in Paris.

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Although much of his work seemed to elevate form over function, particularly in the early days, designs associated with him and emblazoned with his YSL monogram also found their way into the workaday attire of men and women throughout the world.

Often inspired by the objects of everyday life, his clothes -- noted for their cut, color and craftsmanship -- returned the favor and went on to inspire the looks and styles adopted by the multitude.

The son of a successful lawyer, Saint Laurent was born in Oran, Algeria, on Aug. 1, 1936. Described as quiet and retiring throughout his childhood, he showed an interest in theater, sets and costumes at an early age. After completing his secondary studies, he went to Paris to look for work in theatrical design.

His fashion sketches soon attracted attention, and in 1953, one of them was presented to Dior, the great figure in French fashion design. By mere chance, one of the sketches seemed to anticipate work that Dior was about to reveal. Saint Laurent was quickly taken on by the great master.

The two worked closely for three years, with Dior describing Saint Laurent as "my right arm." Shortly after Dior's death, Saint Laurent was named chief designer for the House of Dior.

In an event that might have been possible only in France, Saint Laurent's first showing in his new role, in January 1958, generated headlines and passionate enthusiasm that spilled into the streets. As admiring crowds looked up, Saint Laurent stood on the balcony of his fashion house, blowing kisses.

One collection followed another, to general approval. In 1960, he was called up for compulsory military service. He had twice been deferred because his job was deemed essential.

A few days after his induction, he suffered what was described as a nervous collapse and was hospitalized. During his long recuperation, he was replaced by Marc Bohan at Dior. After recovering, he opened his own house. Its first show came in 1962 and was widely hailed.

It seemed to students of fashion that he was in a new, less extreme phase; soon his designs were receiving the ultimate compliment of being copied by other Paris couturiers.

In 1966, Saint Laurent opened Rive Gauche, a ready-to-wear division that capitalized on the cachet of his name. The same year, he broke ground in women's evening wear by introducing the evening pantsuit fashioned like a tuxedo.

It was generally accepted in the world of fashion that no designer had greater impact on how clothing was cut, shaped and sold.

Saint Laurent was described as retiring, almost reclusive, and his 2002 retirement news conference was believed to be his first.

He said then that he aimed not merely to embellish the appearance of women, but to empower them, "to reassure them, to give them confidence, to enable them to assert themselves."

His retirement was regarded as so significant that the French newspaper Le Monde said it plunged the fashion world into confusion.

Success was not without its hazards; at his valedictory, he spoke of "aesthetic phantoms" and he reportedly had problems with drugs and drink, the demands of fame and the need to be perpetually creative.