Sunday, June 8, 2008

GETTING THERE: American Airlines flies direct from Miami to Uruguay's capital, Montevideo. Fare on American from Reagan National is about $1,249 round trip. Punta del Diablo is three hours east of the airport along Uruguay's coastal highway and scenic Route 9. Glitzy Punta del Este, South America's resort capital, makes a requisite stop along the way. You can rent a car from the airport and drive; the airport Budget, for instance, rents sedans for $104 a day, including taxes and insurance. (Visit http://www.budgetinternational.com to reserve in advance.)

GETTING AROUND: Punta del Diablo is small enough to traverse on foot (mainly barefoot). A car is convenient for trips to nearby Fortaleza Santa Teresa, a Portuguese fortress from 1762, and Proyecto Karumbe ( http://www.karumbe.org), a multinational project protecting endangered sea turtles.

WHERE TO STAY: Terrazas del Diablo ( http://www.puntadeldiablo.com.uy; it's a Spanish-only site but easy to navigate) rents airy, beachfront cabañas outfitted with an array of amenities (from flat-screen TVs to outdoor stone barbecues). Cabañas can accommodate two to six guests and range from $60 to $200 a night. For those in search of genuine seclusion, La Viuda del Diablo ( http://www.laviudadeldiablo.com) offers suites outside town with Jacuzzis, floor-to-ceiling windows and sweeping views of nothing but sea and sand ($100 to $150 a night with breakfast).

WHERE TO EAT: A few blocks from the ocean, Panes y Peces serves up fresh seafood and steaks on its open-air patio. Try the lenguado a la vasca, a local whitefish grilled with olives and red peppers (about $9). For beachfront dining, you can't top El Diablo Tranquilo, which offers a panoramic vista from its rooftop terrace. After dark, it's also Diablo's most lively night spot, with international DJs and a monthly full-moon party.

WHAT TO DO: Nearby Santa Teresa National Park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve, boasts miles of virgin sands and an abundance of birds and marine life. Locals offer guided horseback tours from town ($10 per hour).

INFORMATION: Punta del Diablo is still gloriously free of tour companies, so you'll have to do your homework. Go to http://www.portaldeldiablo.com.uy, which offers practical information on lodging and restaurants plus plenty of photos.

-- R.S.