Griffin Market in Georgetown

This convenient little shop has had its ups and downs through several owners over the past two decades. As a Georgetown neighbor and frequent shopper -- perhaps even more so now that I have left The Washington Post after a long run, accepting early retirement -- I like to pop in three or more times a week for the odd box of dried pasta or quart of milk.

It saddened me when, about two years ago, I began to notice its dwindling stock of groceries and signs of overall decay.

But that was before Arlington residents Laura and Riccardo Bonino took over the operation in February, chucking old equipment and updating the wiring and plumbing. They have turned the Griffin Market into a special place for people who appreciate fine Italian wine and foods.

"Our concept is, we make what we like and offer what we know," says Riccardo, a native of the Piedmont region of Italy and a former manager and wine buyer for chef Roberto Donna's Galileo restaurant. That's where he met his wife, Laura, a native of Queens who worked as a chef at Donna's exclusive Laboratorio del Galileo. (Both restaurants have closed.)

The ongoing Griffin Market makeover is remarkable, even in its infancy. For quick hors d'oeuvres, the Boninos offer a thoughtful selection of French and Italian cheeses, olives, salumi and house-marinated vegetables such as eggplant and red bell peppers. In a nearby display are nice crackers and imported condiments to serve with the cheeses, including quince paste, fig compote, wine jelly and plum mustard.

I like to head to the back of the shop for terrific sandwiches. A standout is the simple but satisfying La Thuile ($7.50), a grilled panino with cured Italian pork and fontina cheese. Equally appealing is the Havana ($8), the couple's take on a Cuban sandwich, with roast pork shoulder, deli-sliced ham, provolone cheese and sliced cornichons. My favorite may be the Monaco ($6.50), a great combination of good-quality Italian tuna (packed in oil) with sliced radishes, hard-cooked egg, tomato and nicoise olives.

It's comforting to know that on hot summer days I'll be able to stroll down the block and pick up a refreshing watermelon basil salad ($6 per pound) dressed with blood-orange-infused olive oil. For dessert, the Boninos make a luscious fruit-flavored panna cotta ($2 for four ounces) and glorious cannoli ($1.25) piped with two kinds of ricotta cheese: a rich chocolate and a vanilla-flavored version with candied fruit.

By next year, after the market's renovation is complete, the couple plan to install ovens in the basement, where they will bake bread and pastries. That will make it the most ambitious Griffin ever.

-- Walter Nicholls

Griffin Market1425 28th St. NW, 202-965-1222. Hours: Mondays through Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sundays, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

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