Three Levels of Mood and Food

As the owners of Sesto Senso in Dupont Circle and Cleveland Park Bar & Grill, Fabio and Patricia Beggiato appear to have full plates. But the husband and wife recently expanded their portfolio to include Darlington House (1610 20th St. NW; 202-332-3722), three distinct places to eat, drink and lounge under one roof.

"We're not in the business of creating an empire," insists Patricia Beggiato. Yet when the space, built by philanthropist Joseph Darlington in 1890 and formerly occupied by the Childe Harold, became available, the couple grabbed it.

"So much history," the restaurateur explains. "And I loved the name."

Aiming to offer something for everyone and every budget, she refers to the onetime residence as "the anti-club." Below ground is the cozy Cantina, featuring a long bar and a menu of "pub bites" such as fish and chips, burgers and "schizzas," or flatbread pizzas. The first floor houses the airy Dining Room and Circle Bar, smartly dressed and quick to change its seasonal menu, which last week included risotto with spring pea puree and lamb sirloin with summer beans and mint coulis. (Best spot to find yourself? Our favorite table is No. 120, a four-seater set in a bay window overlooking the street.) The third piece of the pie, the second-floor Library, should be open next week. Cheese, charcuterie, wine and free WiFi will be the focus of that room, which also can be reserved for private functions.

The owners got more than they bargained for when they hired chef Alex Schulte, 23, a native of Grand Rapids, Mich., and a former line cook at the Modern in New York. He came to the project with a pastry chef in tow, girlfriend Monika Padua, whom he met when both were students at the Culinary Institute of America. And next week, two classmates of theirs -- another couple -- are joining the team, coming from restaurants in Los Angeles to serve as sous-chef and manager.

Dining Room entrees, $28; "pub bites," $6-$23.