Tips: About Rosé

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Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Too many rules would defeat the purpose of rosé, which is to provide an easy-drinking summer option that you don't need to think about too much. But a few ideas can increase your enjoyment:

Drink rosé fresh. Buy the most recent vintage or two, and drink it soon after purchase. We did recently taste an aged rosé: a 1997 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Rosé Rioja ($29), which had spent 4 1/2 years in American oak barrels and at least seven years in bottles. Aging fades a wine's fruitiness, and though we found its earthiness and spiciness intriguing (especially with Turkish lamb), we still believe most rosés are meant to be drunk young and fresh.

Drink rosé chilled. Whether you drink it slightly or thoroughly chilled is a matter of personal preference. On the hottest summer days, we usually start with the latter so that our last sip has a chance of being the former. (We suggest a target of 55 degrees to sticklers who ask.)

Drink rosé with food. Though a refreshing rosé can make an ideal aperitif, this wine shows truly extraordinary food-friendliness. Pair lighter rosés with more-delicate dishes; many deeper-colored and -flavored rosés can stand up to red meats.