Wine Notes From Terry Theise

Selections from three Terry Theise producers: Strub in Germany, Gobelburger in Austria and A. Margaine in the Champagne region. (By James M. Thresher For The Washington Post)

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Wednesday, July 9, 2008

A prophet is not known in his own land, the saying goes. Perhaps that's why Terry Theise's wines are not widely available in the Washington area. Still, you can find them. Look for the label proclaiming the wine a "Terry Theise Estate Selection."

Here are three of Theise's current favorites that are available for retail purchase or at local restaurants, along with excerpts from Theise's tasting notes.

Champagne

A. Margaine NV Brut: "These can be some of the most hauntingly beautiful and original Champagnes you'll ever drink. . . . It is so pretty you feel your palate stand up so that it can swoon back down. It's a creamy elegant wine." Available at CityZen in Southwest and Ardeo in Cleveland Park; or order at your local wine store.

Austria

2007 Gobelsburger Gruner Veltliner: "This '07 is an alarm clock that wakes you up with the songs of a thousand birds; wonderfully sorrely and nettle-y and spearminty; less body and more brilliance than '06, and still absurdly fine in its class." Available at CityZen, at Corduroy and DC Coast downtown and at Proof in Penn Quarter. It will be available at retail this fall at MacArthur Beverages, 4877 MacArthur Blvd. NW, 202-338-1433, for $14.99.

Germany

2006 Strub Riesling Soil to Soul: "The aroma is as complex as we could have dreamed; key-lime, Parma ham, wintergreen, ginger candy; the palate is taut, grippy, exciting -- it's the best branded Riesling I've ever offered; even the finish is suave and complex -- you want to eat your own mouth just to keep it going." Available at MacArthur Beverages, $15.99.

-- Jane Black