Curries On the Quick

Two Indian eateries offer delicious food fast

MEXICAN, CHINESE AND ITALIAN FOOD have done it. Now Indian cuisine is the latest to take advantage of the popular fast-casual trend in dining. A Texas chain of quick Indian food, called Masala Wok, has opened its first out-of-state location in Herndon; Aditi, a traditional Indian restaurant in Georgetown, has just opened a no-waiters, order-at-the-counter version of itself called Aditi Bistro in Vienna.

After eating at both, all I can say is: What a great idea -- and what took you so long?

Fast-casual, a term coined by the restaurant industry, basically means a hybrid of fast food and casual dining. You order and pay before eating, a la fast food, but you get a higher quality meal, better decor, even a glass of wine or beer, and all for a moderate price. In the case of these two places, they're similar in operation to Noodles & Company or Pei Wei, with a large menu and runners who bring the food to your table.

But let's cut to the chase: Fast is fine, but is the food any good? The short answer: Yes. The menus aren't exactly the same -- Masala Wok has more homey Indo-Chinese dishes, vegetarian fare and kid choices; Aditi Bistro is more upscale and contemporary, with salads as well as traditional curries. Prices at the two are comparable, although several of Aditi's grilled entrees are a dollar or two more. Both, however, will eminently satisfy that urge for a plate of spicy vindaloo, chicken tikka or even a quick masala wrap.

Masala Wok
905 Herndon Pkwy., Suite A, Herndon
703-657-0216
www.masalawok.com

** (our of four)
SOUND CHECK: 74 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)

Open: Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Free parking. All major credit cards. Entrees $7.75 to $9.
out of four
OUND CHECK: 74 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)

Open Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Free parking. All major credit cards. Entrees $7.75 to OPEN SINCE SEPTEMBER in a new strip shopping center off busy Elden Street, Masala Wok quickly has become a hit with office workers at lunch and families in the evenings. The eating area, with its walls painted peach, saffron and lime green, is roomy enough that tables can be pushed together to accommodate large groups without bothering other customers. The carpeted floor helps soften the noise, so there's a nice low-level buzz to the place that feels energetic but welcoming.

The menu has three main parts: masala entrees (milder curries, mostly), favorites (well-known dishes such as chicken tikka and tandoori chicken) and wok entrees (Chinese-inspired dishes with Indian spices). There are also a handful of appetizers, several soups, a couple of wraps and three desserts, including a dreamy tres leches cake.

Let's start with the starters. The samosas, fried, flaky puff pastry triangles filled with potatoes and peas, are always good, but the real star is the chicken lollipops. When I first saw them on the menu, I figured they were some kind of kid treat -- you know, mild, fried drummettes. Then I took a bite. Wow. The best way I can describe them is the Indian version of Buffalo chicken wings. Each spicy, batter-dipped drummette is about three bites worth of fiery, addictive pleasure.

Speaking of fiery, entrees can be ordered mild, medium or spicy. (My Indian friends go for spicy; medium is my limit.) The menu also clearly indicates which dishes can be made vegetarian (either with vegetables only or with paneer, a mild, fresh cheese), and which are available low-carb with stir-fried vegetables on the side instead of rice or nan. Most entrees can be prepared with your choice of chicken, lamb or shrimp.

Chicken tikka masala is a consistent favorite, with its tender marinated cubes of grilled chicken in a rich, creamy tomato sauce the color of ripe persimmons. It's available as an entree with rice, or as a wrap with chicken, rice, cheese and vegetables rolled up in nan, plus dipping sauce on the side. Like korma -- a yogurt-based, slightly sweet curry -- these two dishes will appeal to those who want something mild. For more heat, go for the Blazing Masala Noodles, stir-fried linguine with finely chopped vegetables in a chili-infused red sauce. It's great topped with plump shrimp. The vindaloo, a normally spicy tomato stew, seemed a bit toned down and not quite thick enough, but there's always the Masala Wok Spicy, which is an Indian-style Sichuan stir-fry (hint: Eat a spoonful of yogurt raita to douse those smoldering tongues).