Curries On the Quick
Two Indian eateries offer delicious food fast

By Candy Sagon
Special to The Washington Post
Sunday, July 13, 2008

MEXICAN, CHINESE AND ITALIAN FOOD have done it. Now Indian cuisine is the latest to take advantage of the popular fast-casual trend in dining. A Texas chain of quick Indian food, called Masala Wok, has opened its first out-of-state location in Herndon; Aditi, a traditional Indian restaurant in Georgetown, has just opened a no-waiters, order-at-the-counter version of itself called Aditi Bistro in Vienna.

After eating at both, all I can say is: What a great idea -- and what took you so long?

Fast-casual, a term coined by the restaurant industry, basically means a hybrid of fast food and casual dining. You order and pay before eating, a la fast food, but you get a higher quality meal, better decor, even a glass of wine or beer, and all for a moderate price. In the case of these two places, they're similar in operation to Noodles & Company or Pei Wei, with a large menu and runners who bring the food to your table.

But let's cut to the chase: Fast is fine, but is the food any good? The short answer: Yes. The menus aren't exactly the same -- Masala Wok has more homey Indo-Chinese dishes, vegetarian fare and kid choices; Aditi Bistro is more upscale and contemporary, with salads as well as traditional curries. Prices at the two are comparable, although several of Aditi's grilled entrees are a dollar or two more. Both, however, will eminently satisfy that urge for a plate of spicy vindaloo, chicken tikka or even a quick masala wrap.

Masala Wok
905 Herndon Pkwy., Suite A, Herndon
703-657-0216
www.masalawok.com

** (our of four)
SOUND CHECK: 74 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)

Open: Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Free parking. All major credit cards. Entrees $7.75 to $9.
out of four
OUND CHECK: 74 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)

Open Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Free parking. All major credit cards. Entrees $7.75 to OPEN SINCE SEPTEMBER in a new strip shopping center off busy Elden Street, Masala Wok quickly has become a hit with office workers at lunch and families in the evenings. The eating area, with its walls painted peach, saffron and lime green, is roomy enough that tables can be pushed together to accommodate large groups without bothering other customers. The carpeted floor helps soften the noise, so there's a nice low-level buzz to the place that feels energetic but welcoming.

The menu has three main parts: masala entrees (milder curries, mostly), favorites (well-known dishes such as chicken tikka and tandoori chicken) and wok entrees (Chinese-inspired dishes with Indian spices). There are also a handful of appetizers, several soups, a couple of wraps and three desserts, including a dreamy tres leches cake.

Let's start with the starters. The samosas, fried, flaky puff pastry triangles filled with potatoes and peas, are always good, but the real star is the chicken lollipops. When I first saw them on the menu, I figured they were some kind of kid treat -- you know, mild, fried drummettes. Then I took a bite. Wow. The best way I can describe them is the Indian version of Buffalo chicken wings. Each spicy, batter-dipped drummette is about three bites worth of fiery, addictive pleasure.

Speaking of fiery, entrees can be ordered mild, medium or spicy. (My Indian friends go for spicy; medium is my limit.) The menu also clearly indicates which dishes can be made vegetarian (either with vegetables only or with paneer, a mild, fresh cheese), and which are available low-carb with stir-fried vegetables on the side instead of rice or nan. Most entrees can be prepared with your choice of chicken, lamb or shrimp.

Chicken tikka masala is a consistent favorite, with its tender marinated cubes of grilled chicken in a rich, creamy tomato sauce the color of ripe persimmons. It's available as an entree with rice, or as a wrap with chicken, rice, cheese and vegetables rolled up in nan, plus dipping sauce on the side. Like korma -- a yogurt-based, slightly sweet curry -- these two dishes will appeal to those who want something mild. For more heat, go for the Blazing Masala Noodles, stir-fried linguine with finely chopped vegetables in a chili-infused red sauce. It's great topped with plump shrimp. The vindaloo, a normally spicy tomato stew, seemed a bit toned down and not quite thick enough, but there's always the Masala Wok Spicy, which is an Indian-style Sichuan stir-fry (hint: Eat a spoonful of yogurt raita to douse those smoldering tongues).

For kids, there are soft noodles and the ubiquitous chicken nuggets, or try the masala quesadilla -- warm, puffy nan stuffed with melted cheese. My 17-year-old "kid" had to slap my hand to keep me from eating all of hers.

Aditi Bistro

405 Maple Ave. East, Vienna
703-938-0100
www.aditibistro.com

Open: lunch Monday through Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. Free parking. All major credit cards. Lunch and dinner entrees $7.95 to$12.95.

** (out of 4 stars)
SOUND CHECK: 68 decibels (Conversation is easy)

A SLICK LITTLE EATERY in the heart of Vienna, Aditi Bistro is trying to hit all the fast-casual bases. There's a counter for ordering wraps, made as you watch, a la Chipotle. And there's a menu of curries and grilled items, cooked in a spacious kitchen and brought to your table by friendly employees, similar to places like Noodles & Company. Vegetarian, healthy and spicy dishes are clearly marked on the menu; so are those that contain nuts, for customers with allergies.

The slate floor, black granite tables and floor-to-ceiling marbleized accent wall panels give the place a hip feel. Owner Suku Nair opened the restaurant about two months ago in the former location of Aarathi Indian Cuisine (which he had also owned). There are a few details he needs to work out -- a more visible sign out front, a few more employees, perhaps a switch from black Styrofoam plates and plastic utensils to china and stainless steel -- but these are minor issues. Even eaten on Styrofoam, the food is great.

For those in a rush, the masala wraps are basically fat, Indian burritos with rice, lime juice, lettuce, onions, green peppers and spices. Vegetarians can add spiced potatoes or paneer jalfrezi (cheese and sauteed veggies), while meat-eaters can choose tender marinated chicken or lamb. For $6, this is one delicious deal. For the slimmer, snack-size version, order a kati roll, which has the same fillings, minus the rice. We liked the chicken ones so much that we shared one as an appetizer each time we went.

Nair, who's from Kerala, on the tropical southwestern coast of India, has added some regional favorites to the grill menu. Patrani salmon comes on a bed of garlicky zucchini slices, topped with asparagus, and wrapped and baked in a banana leaf. The salmon comes out moist, tender and infused with the flavors of the vegetables and seasonings, although much less spicy than the way it's traditionally prepared in India.

Nair also uses less yogurt and thicker spice pastes as marinades for chicken and lamb, which transforms chicken tandoori into a lighter -- and not so day-glo red -- version of this classic. It's the same for the tender Nilgiri lamb chops, which were so

irresistible that we sucked every last little spicy scrap from the bones.

The menu offers six kinds of curries, each served with saffron rice. The mild, creamy korma, thickened with a paste of almonds and cashews, is sweeter than Masala Wok's version. The tomatoey vindaloo is marked on the menu as spicy. No kidding. Fortunately, the heat doesn't obscure the complex flavors in this thick stew, which comes full of potato chunks and your choice of chicken, lamb or shrimp.

There are two cool, creamy desserts -- fresh, mild cheese patties in sweetened cream and dusted with pistachios, and rice pudding with almonds and raisins. One is apparently more popular than the other. Each time I went, the rice pudding was sold out.

Tom Sietsema is on assignment.