Sunday, July 13, 2008

GETTING THERE: No airlines fly nonstop from Washington to Montevideo, Uruguay. American has the most convenient schedule and competitive prices; flights depart Reagan National and connect in Miami. For American's one-stop flights, depart Monday, Wednesday or Friday, and return Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday. Prices start at about $1,270 round trip.

Taxis from the city's suburban airport to downtown cost about $30 one way.

GETTING AROUND: With cobblestone streets and elegant plazas, the Old City was built for walking. For crosstown trips, taxis are plentiful and cheap (about $5 per ride).

WHERE TO STAY: On the edge of the Old City, the five-star Radisson (Plaza Independencia, 888-201-1718, http://www.radisson.com/montevideouy; doubles from $195 a night) offers some of the plushest accommodations in Montevideo. For rooms overlooking the Rio de la Plata, try the city's only boutique hotel, Cala di Volpe (Rambla Mahatma Gandhi, 011-598-2-710-2000, http://www.hotelcaladivolpe.com.uy; $150-$180).

WHERE TO EAT: Cafe Bacacay (Bacacay 1306), near the restored neoclassical opera house, Teatro Solis, serves great steaks and such inventive fusion dishes as citrus-grilled chicken. Try the lomo al tannat (filet mignon served with a red wine sauce) for $15. Montevideo also has top-notch Italian food: At Spaghetteria 23 (Scoseria 2584), pair fresh pastas with more than a dozen homemade sauces, such as spinach- and basil-stuffed ravioli with sun-dried tomato sauce ($11).

LEARN TO TANGO: Tango academy Joventango (Mercado de la Abundancia, 011-598-2-901-5561, http://www.joventango.org; $4 for a walk-in class) offers classes, including a special tango-for-kids session, in an art deco market in city center. One drawback: The smell of barbecued steaks from next door makes focusing on footwork a challenge. On Saturdays, Teatro Solis (Plaza Independencia, 011-598-2-1950-3323, http://www.teatrosolis.org.uy; $6 for a 90-minute crash course) opens its doors to tango newbies, offering lessons for beginners in its lavish ballroom.

WHERE TO SEE AND DANCE TANGO: Just outside the Old City, Baar Fun-Fun (Mercado Central; $5 cover) has been hosting tango legends for almost a century, including a 1933 visit from Carlos Gardel. These days, locals and visitors pack the place to hear the graying house band belt out classics. Practice your tango steps at nearby El Farolito (Juncal 1413), an intimate bar tucked away on the second floor of a restored colonial building. Vieja Viola (Paysandu 1639) is a favorite among tango's in-crowd and the place to see the city's best dancers working the floor.

TANGO TOURS: A disclaimer on Montevideo-Tango's Web site ( http://www.montevideo-tango.com/mvdt/tangotour.htm) warns that its tour ($100 a person) is not a dinner show but an all-night assault on the city's tango haunts. The ambitious itinerary begins with a private 90-minute lesson and promises sultry dancing until dawn with Montevideo's best tangueros. Price includes transport and admission to the top clubs.

INFORMATION: Uruguay Ministry of Tourism, http://www.turismo.gub.uy. If your Spanish is passable, check out Montevideo-tango.com for the lowdown on the city's tango scene.

-- R.S.