Do-It-Yourself: Squeaky Wood Floors

Q Our older house has developed squeaky wood floors. What can we do to alleviate this?

The squeaks are caused by wood rubbing against nails or other wood when weight is applied, and quieting them can be tricky.

It sometimes helps to lubricate the boards in squeaky areas by sweeping talcum powder into the cracks. Carefully clean up any powder on the surface to prevent slipping.

Floor boards in squeaky areas can also be renailed. Use 2 1/2 -inch flooring nails, and if possible, nail into the floor joists or supporting framework. Set the nail heads slightly below the surface of the wood and fill the holes with wood putty that matches the floor finish.

The best results can often be achieved by working from below, if there is access such as a basement with exposed joists and subflooring.

Have someone walk over the floor and mark squeaky areas with chalk. Look for movement in the subfloor when weight is applied above.

Slight gaps can sometimes be spotted between subfloor and joists, allowing movement that causes squeaks. Thin wood shims, coated with glue on both sides, can be tapped into the gaps to stop the movement.

Packs of shims are available at some home centers and building supply outlets. Special metal braces can also be used to tighten floors from below. Braces are screwed to joists and subfloor, holding loose surfaces tightly together.

Some floors squeak because the joists are not strong enough and the floor flexes when walked on. In those cases, supporting posts or other means to shore up the joists may be needed.

My roof overhangs are covered underneath with perforated vinyl panels. They are mildewed and dirty, but I'm afraid to pressure-wash them for fear that the water will get into the perforations and cause damage behind the panels. What do you suggest?

I agree that high-pressure washing could cause some problems, especially where these panels span vents that let air into the attic. The best bet is to use a low-pressure garden-type sprayer to apply a cleaner and mold killer such as Mildew Check or Jomax, sold at many home centers. Rinse with a fine spray from a hose.

What is the best paint for my cedar home?

Cedar can be difficult to paint because the wood contains tannin that can cause dark stains on the surface. The tannin can bleed through paint unless special precautions are taken. Start by cleaning the wood with a deck cleaner suitable for cedar such as Wolman Deck and Fence Brightener. When the wood has dried thoroughly, apply a coat of oil-based primer and stain killer. Zinsser's Cover-Stain is a good choice. Finally, apply two coats of top-quality, 100-percent acrylic paint.

Questions and comments should be sent to Gene Austin, 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, Pa. 19422. Send e-mail todoit861@aol.com. Questions cannot be answered personally.