Where to Go, What to Know

Travel writer Andrea Sachs recently slept -- but didn't gamble -- in Atlantic City, at two additions to the hotel scene. Here is her reporter's notebook.

GETTING THERE

From Washington, take Interstate 95 north to I-295 north, then Route 42 south/Atlantic City Expressway into Atlantic City. Harrah's Resort and Borgata's Water Club are in the marina district, not far from the Boardwalk.

STAYING THERE

Harrah's Resort's Waterfront Tower (777 Harrah's Blvd., 800-HARRAHS, http://www.harrahs.com) offers 960 rooms with that new-hotel smell. Amenities include 42-inch flat-screen TV, mini-fridge, coffee maker and stellar views of the bay, ocean or city. Rates from $139, depending on season. Borgata's Water Club (1 Renaissance Way, 800-800-8817, http://www.thewaterclubhotel.com) is a shrine to design. The 800 rooms and suites come with such aesthetic details as a potted orchid, glass sculpture of goldfish, Italian marble showers with rain-dome shower heads and gourmet-stocked mini bar. Rooms from $249.

EATING THERE

In the Waterfront Tower, dining choices include the Waterfront Buffet, a stuff-fest with multiple cooking stations (dinner $29.99, breakfast $18.99); the 24-hour Reflections cafe, which serves such comfort foods as matzo ball soup ($6), Delmonico steak ($27) and all-day breakfast; and the Taste of the Shore food court, including Primo Pizza, Sack O' Subs and Philly pretzels. The Water Club does not have a traditional restaurant, but guests can order off menus prepared by chef Geoffrey Zakarian. In addition to room service, food is available at the pool, spa and the Sunroom lounge. Dishes include Cape Cod potato chips with onion and caviar dip ($12), a Mediterranean platter ($20), sea scallops roasted over pear wasabi ($32) and lemon pancakes ($14).

WHAT TO DO

Both resorts have shops in their new towers. The Waterfront Shops at Harrah's includes seven stores selling a variety of men's and women's clothing, jewelry, gewgaws, electronics and home decor. The Shoppes at the Water Club features six designer stores, including Hugo Boss, Just Cavalli, La Perla and Cameo, which sells items found in the guestrooms.

Swim until you turn into a prune at the Waterfront Tower's Pool or the Water Club's indoor/outdoor swimming holes. For spas, try the Elizabeth Arden Red Door at Harrah's or Immersion at Borgata, a two-story stunner with a fitness center, treatment rooms and a lap pool. Daily use of Immersion costs $20; treatments are extra. The Waterfront Tower also has a fitness center; $10.

On Wednesday and weekend nights, the Pool puts on its dancing shoes and transforms into a nightclub, with DJs and bands. Cover charge varies. The Water Club's evening scene is pretty mellow: maybe cocktails and conversation in the Sunroom, or TV while lounging on 400-thread-count sheets.

INFORMATION: Atlantic City Convention and Visitors Authority, 888-228-4748, http://www.atlanticcitynj.com.

DRIVE TIME About 3 1/2 hours from the Beltway