Do-It-Yourself

Q I have a two-story house with rain gutters that are too high for me to clean safely. I would like to install a gutter cover system that will eliminate cleaning. Which is the best? --S. Slogesky

A There are many gutter-cover systems, some of which claim to be free of maintenance or cleaning, but I can't presume to say which is the best. For what it's worth, some manufacturers make the "best" claim for themselves. For example, Gutter Helmet, one widely sold system, claims to be "the first, the best, the number one." Most of the systems you are considering put a solid cap or cover on the gutter that has an opening only in the front edge -- generally a slot or series of slots. Leaves and debris are supposed to wash right over the cover and fall to the ground, while the rain water enters the gutter through the slot.

Over the years a number of readers who own this type of system have written to me, and the reports generally have been favorable. However, there have been some complaints that indicate some systems don't always work as claimed and might not be maintenance-free. In heavy rains, some readers say, water cascading down a roof valley or steep roof tended to overshoot the gutter, pouring water close to the foundation. Other readers say small debris such as pine needles and maple seeds tends to get inside the gutters, which eventually require cleaning.

I have tried several types of screens on my gutters. These have many perforations that are supposed to let water enter the gutter but keep out debris, which theoretically washes off. These also proved not to be maintenance-free. Some leaves and twigs stuck in the perforations, and small stuff such as seeds accumulated on the surface and had to be scraped off.

Getting gutter covers installed can be expensive, especially if the system requires replacement of the existing gutters. (Some covers can be installed over existing gutters in good condition.) It might pay to get several estimates from leading gutter companies in your area and compare the cost to hiring outside help to clean your existing gutters periodically.

I need to dig a number of post holes for a fence, and I am using a clamshell-type hole digger. The soil is hard and dry, and digging a hole is tough. Do you have any tips? I know about the big augers that can be rented, but I don't want to get into that. --C. Secrist

The clamshell digger, which has two spade-like blades and two handles, is a great tool if you are working in soft ground. For hard, dry, rocky soil, you need some extra help. I use a long steel digging bar to loosen the soil, then ram the clamshell blades into the hole to pick up the loose stuff. My digging bar is almost six feet long and weighs at least 15 pounds. Even this can be hard going at times. When things get really tough, I fill the hole with water and take a break. Give the water plenty of time to soak into the hard soil, and when you return to the hole, you will find the digging much easier.

We used a de-icer on our sidewalks last winter that caused pitting in the concrete. How can we fix this? --M. LaSalle

If the pits are not too ugly, the best bet is to try to live with them. Otherwise, resurfacing is the best bet for repairing pitting and minor chips in concrete. This would mean applying a thin coat of resurfacing material over the entire surface. Do-it-yourself resurfacers, such as Quikrete's Concrete Resurfacer, are sold at some home centers and building-supply outlets. This product is applied with a squeegee or brush. The surface must be thoroughly cleaned and in good condition -- free of cracks, crumbling and so forth.

If you use de-icer next winter, try calcium chloride, which is less harmful to concrete and vegetation than some other de-icers.

Questions and comments should be sent to Gene Austin, 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, Pa. 19422. Send e-mail todoit861@aol.com. Questions cannot be answered personally.