In a Golden State of Mind

For his first project, Veritas in Dupont Circle, Adam Manson created exactly the wine bar he wanted: "Dark and sexy," he sums up the interior.

Manson's second wine bar, the new-since-June Enology (3238 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-362-0362) near National Cathedral, is the opposite: all glass, creamy color and nothing but votives to serve as decoration. If Metrobuses weren't visible through the large picture windows there, you'd swear you were sipping your 2004 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs in sunny California.

The hefty wine list supports the notion. It has 27 pages and focuses heavily on goods from the Golden State. "California is where the best wine comes from" in the United States, says general manager and sommelier Jamie Smith, whose list also includes picks from Oregon and Washington state. The most popular way to explore his collection is via trios of tastes, or flights, some of which carry amusing titles. "When in Rome," for instance, unites California-made barbera, dolcetto and sangiovese. Flights are ferried to the table by servers hoisting chic metal caddies.

For bargain hunters, the best night to drop by is Tuesday, when select bottles are half-price.

Enology isn't trying to be a Cork or a Proof or any other food-conscious, wine-centric Washington restaurant. "We're not going for a culinary masterpiece," says Manson, who owns this, Veritas and Capitol Lounge on the Hill with restaurateur Joe Englert.

At Enology, the solids are limited to tried-and-true cheese and meat plates, salads and flatbreads. The last are based on anemic crusts that are oddly sweet and make a poor canvas for otherwise decent toppings (dried figs, Maytag blue cheese and smoked duck breast in the case of the "Red Mountain" Frisbee). Discerning sweet tooths, on the other hand, can indulge a fantasy or two with confections from Washington's J. Chocolatier.

Veritas and Enology sport different looks, but they have much the same clientele: a "good mix" of women, reports Manson. He estimates that 80 percent of his customers at both venues are female: "Maybe it's a wine thing."

Maybe all the single guys out there should log off eHarmony and check out Enology.

Three-cheese plates $14, two-meat plates $12, salads $7-$14.