GETTING THERE: The quick route is Interstate 66 west to Exit 13 to Route 79 (Apple Mountain Road). Turn right onto Route 55 and go five miles. Turn left onto Route 340, and head south for 23 miles. The road goes directly into downtown Luray. The I-66 route is undeniably efficient and even scenic, but the views are at 65 mph. I recommend taking Route 50 to Route 340. Once you get west of Gilbert's Corner (the junction of routes 50 and 15), Route 50 runs through Aldie, Middleburg and Upperville and within a literal stone's throw of Paris, a town (population 49) with one of the prettiest settings in Virginia.
STAYING THERE: The apartment at the Luray Antique and Design Center rents for $249 a night. The Aventine Hall, $450 a night, is available weekends and by arrangement with Billy Jennell (540-743-7900 or 540-244-9357). We stayed at the Woodruff Inns (540-743-1494, http:/
ANTIQUING: Luray Antique and Design Center (26 N. Broad St., Luray, 540-743-7900 or 540-244-9357, http:/
WHAT ELSE TO DO: For those who don't fear the subterranean, Luray Caverns (970 U.S. 211 W., Luray, 540-743-6551, http:/
I worried that the Luray Zoo (1087 U.S. 211 W., Luray, 540-743-4113, http:/
INFORMATION: Page County Chamber of Commerce, 46 E. Main St., 888-743-3915, http:/