Training the Climbers: A Guide to Vines

By Joel M. Lerner
Saturday, August 30, 2008

Vines can be trained onto almost any structure -- deck, porch, shed, pergola, wall, fence, pole or arbor. The type of climber being trained determines how it should be attached. Plants climb in different ways:

· Aerial roots. Ivy and trumpet vine have adventitious, also called aerial, roots that will attach to any solid wall without training. If you plant ivy or trumpet vine on a trellis with an open framework, tie it to the supports until it self-attaches with rootlets from its stem onto the vertical support it is against. English ivy is actually a woody shrub that strives to grow vertically by means of aerial roots. As it grows up a tree, it changes from juvenile (lobed leaves, no fruit) to adult (no lobes on leaves, flowers and fruit that birds love to eat and spread through the woods).

· Twining. Some plants twine around other objects they come into contact with. Clematis, morning glory, honeysuckle, kiwi ( Actinidia kolomikta) and wisteria will train themselves onto anything. The challenge is keeping them under control. These vines can kill a tree or shrub by entwining too tightly around it. As the tree grows, live tissue just under the bark (cambium) grows into the vine and cuts off the tree's vascular system that supplies nutrients and water to the leaves. Keep twining vines off trees.

· Tendrils. Plants such as the grape have spiral, springlike stems called tendrils that curl around wires and other narrow supports. Tendrils of beans and peas grow from leaf stems and curl around wires and poles in the same way grapevines do. They will train themselves onto an arbor or over lattice.

· Tendrils with modified connectors. Some vines, including Boston ivy ( Parthenocissus tricuspidata) and Virginia creeper ( P. quinquefolia), have modified connectors at the end of each tendril called discs that attach to a structure with a type of natural glue. This disc will pull the vine up to the structure; a new section of stem grows to the next spot the connector can attach to. They prefer solid structures such as walls and trees.

Shrubs that aren't natural climbers can be trained on trellises. The best ones are vigorous growers that will take hard pruning and dependably renew. Roses and pyracanthas can be trained as climbers. Pruning keeps them tightly against trellises and full of flowers, fruits or berries. Shrubs you train should have interesting leaf color, berries, flowers, branching habits or other outstanding characteristics.

Trellising plants and keeping them narrow are excellent approaches for tight spaces. The practice of training shrubs and trees on trellises is called espaliering. It was developed by the French as an intensive gardening practice to stimulate fruit production in small areas. Using espalier theories, almost any branching pattern can be achieved, from fishbone or fan shapes to your name across the front of your home.

A simplified explanation for training a shrub or tree in this fashion is to prune the front and rear growing branches and leave only desired side branches. Leave three- to six-inch stems coming off main branches so there are buds to produce flowers and fruit. The time to prune depends on the plant. Most should flower or fruit before being pruned.

Install one of these supports for vines and climbers:

· Rods. Galvanized pipes or rebar (reinforcing rods) can be set two feet apart in concrete on the ground and extended to eaves of houses or garden structures. Wires can be strung across bars creating a ladder effect if plants need it.

· Wire mesh. Plastic-coated or galvanized reinforcing wire can be attached to fences or walls. Mesh that comes in six-by-six-inch squares works well. It provides something to tie onto and works for plants with tendrils and twining habits. If you attach wire to a wooden structure, avoid holding moisture against wood by leaving air space between wall and mesh.

· Lattice. Many styles are sold at garden centers, lumberyards and building suppliers. Built from wood, plastic, fiberglass, metal and other combinations, they are frameworks that usually form geometric patterns such as fans, diamonds or ladders.

· Walls and fences. Natural spots for trellising plants, especially on small properties. Some vines will attach themselves to walls or fences without training. To cover fences with greenery, make sure wood is pressure-treated. Otherwise, plantings should be planted on supports a few inches away. You may wish to use trellises in front of masonry for English ivy ( Hedera helix).

Here are some suggestions for tough vines to plant:

· Boston ivy. New growth emerges maroon in spring. A fast grower in sun or shade, it will cover walls in a season or two. Green summer foliage is excellent background for water features, sculptures or other plantings. Fall color is an outstanding red.

· Clematis. I can't recommend just one. The red, purple, pink and white five- to six-inch flowers of the jackman clematis that bloom profusely in late spring are one reason to choose this vine. The anemone clematis ( C. montana) grows vigorously to cascade over fences, walls or trellises and is covered with white to pink flowers in May. Another is sweet autumn clematis. It will run rampant over any plant or structure in its way and can become almost weedlike, but doesn't need a heavy support. The lacy white, fragrant flowers open in fall. Prune hard after flowering.

· Climbing rose. There are so many hybrids of climbing roses, in miniature and full size forms, that to recommend one or two is ludicrous. Having said that, there are two we have grown for years. One is planted between two structures, receives about six hours of light and has totally taken care of itself. It is called aloha. Another one we have enjoyed is zepherine drouhin and is completely thorn-free. It has performed admirably on benign neglect. At least two flushes of pink flowers are produced per season on both.

· Everlasting or perennial sweet pea. Flowers of deep pink to purple, summer and fall, are a good reason to grow this fully hardy vine, which will cover a six-foot trellis in a season. Wide winged stems are an interesting growth characteristic. Freezes back in winter.

· Native or Japanese wisteria. This woody twining deciduous vine has lavender, fragrant flowers in spring. It is pleasing in full bloom, trained on pillars, a deck, stair railings or another sturdy structure. It needs heavy supports, such as pipe or lumber, not lattice. Training is a must. It grows strong woody stems around everything it touches and seeds everywhere, sun or shade. Try less invasive native Kentucky wisteria ( Wisteria macrostachys) or American wisteria ( W. frutescens).

· Cross-vine. Try this spring-flowering perennial vine ( Bignonia capreolata) in partial shade to full sun. This semi-evergreen vine grows eight feet or more in a season and flowers dark red among other colors, depending on the hybrid. This twining plant will grow on any trellis or arbor.

· Purple lablab or hyacinth bean. A fast-growing vine ( Dolichos lablab) that starts from seed annually. Deep pink flowers and red pods of this tendril climber are outstanding. Grow in a planter on narrow stakes, a fence or lattice in full sun. Let some go to seed to save and grow next year.

Joel M. Lerner is president of Environmental Design in Capitol View Park, Md. E-mail or contact him through his Web site,http://www.gardenlerner.com.