By Steven Goff
Washington Post Staff Writer
Saturday, September 6, 2008
HAVANA, Sept. 5 -- From their upscale hotel in the Vedado district, players for the U.S. national soccer team are able to admire vintage American cars rumbling along the Malecon, the famous boulevard that separates the sea from this intriguing and troubled city.
East along the curved roadway, past a beer garden, a sad playground and crumbling buildings, signs at Plaza Anti-Imperialista extolling the 1959 revolution confront the U.S. Special Interests Section, the closest thing to a diplomatic outpost.
In Havana Vieja, the old town where salsa music filters through the narrow streets, monuments honor historic figures and bars salute Hemingway. Behind the Revolution Museum, the boat that carried Fidel Castro from Mexico to Cuba to begin the overthrow of the Batista government is preserved in glass and flanked by a captured U.S. bomber and a Soviet tank.
If the players picked up the English version of Granma, the government newspaper, they would have read a front-page message from Castro: "We are lucky to have a revolution!"
The one-hour flight took the players from Miami to Havana. The journey took them back in time.
Representatives of both teams have been playing down the political significance of Saturday night's World Cup qualifying match at Pedro Marrero Stadium, the first visit by the full U.S. national team in 61 years, but it would be foolish to ignore the extraordinary backdrop.
"We do understand the fact that this game will bring extra attention," U.S. Coach Bob Bradley said. "It's exciting for all of us to play in that kind of situation and representing ourselves, representing the United States in the right way."
A capacity crowd of 17,000 is expected at the 79-year-old stadium, once a baseball park that hosted American players before the revolution. Asked if Raúl Castro, who succeeded his ailing brother as president in February, will attend, an official said, "We are not informed" of such decisions.
The U.S. players will not spend much time here, having arrived Thursday evening and departing on their charter Sunday morning. But a few ventured out Friday, strolling through the markets of Havana Vieja to buy artwork and old photographs. (As part of the economic embargo, the U.S. Treasury Department allows Americans to bring back cultural and informational items only.)
They were also able to absorb an atmosphere unlike anything they've encountered during other eye-opening Latin American odysseys.
"It's always been a mysterious land for Americans," defender Danny Califf said. "I really didn't know what to expect. I had heard about the old cars and that's about it. I really felt like I stepped out of a time machine. It's just surreal with the old buildings and cars, just surreal."
Added forward Landon Donovan: "The people have been fantastic. I think we were a little unsure of what to expect, but everyone has been great. They have been friendly, and they seem excited about us being here."
While the Americans are experiencing the past, they would like to maintain the present when it comes to soccer. They have been to the past five World Cups and are heavily favored to join two other regional teams in the 2010 tournament in South Africa. In contrast, Cuba has not been to the World Cup since 1938 and has not come close to qualifying in years.
The countries are in the same four-team, semifinal-round group, with the top two advancing to next year's final round. Saturday will serve as the second of six matches for each team.
The Cubans, who lost at home to Trinidad and Tobago, 3-1, on Aug. 20, are well aware of their long odds against the Americans, 1-0 winners at Guatemala in their group opener.
"We have assessed the American program and it has been an amazing development," Cuban soccer federation president Luis Hernández said. "We have seen how football has been able to reach a new level. The American football image has been increasing all the time."
Addressing U.S. reporters at the federation headquarters overlooking the stadium, Hernández added, "The best way to respect you is to beat you."
The venue for the game is a facility situated on the western edge of the city on the site of an old cervezeria, or brewery. The towers of Cerveza Tropical still stand. On the opposite side, a canopy of ceiba trees shade the concrete steps into the rundown complex. A popular cabaret sits on the stadium grounds.
Before the U.S. team arrived for a light workout Friday night, plastic lawn chairs from the entrance were being moved down to the concrete slabs close to the field. Meantime, a crane lifted corrugated roofing tiles to a lone worker atop a metal frame. One load slipped off and crashed into a million pieces on the running track that circles the field.
A scruffy dog wandered through the long jump pit, and workers applied the final touches of light blue paint on the outer walls.
To many U.S. players, facing Cuba does not feel any different than preparing for another regional rival.
"It's a big game for us and it doesn't matter who it's against -- we want to win," defender Frankie Hejduk said. "At the end of the day, it's just about qualifying for the World Cup."
History aside, the U.S. team's focus is on winning on the road and taking another step toward the final stage of qualifying next year.
"We do understand the fact that, in this round, there is less room for slip-ups," Bradley said. "We started this round with two away games, and we are focusing on the fact that six points from two away games would go a long way toward securing our place in the next round. We have put ourselves in a good position and now we want to take advantage of it."
U.S. Notes: Defender Steve Cherundolo, who started at right back against Guatemala, is serving a one-game suspension for receiving a red card in the Guatemala match and is expected to be replaced in the lineup by Hejduk. Another player on the 20-man travel roster will be scratched before kickoff. Defender Michael Orozco, who has yet to play for the senior national team, is the most likely candidate.
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