DETAILS: Cornwall

GETTING THERE: You can fly nonstop from Washington Dulles to London Heathrow, about a four-hour drive from Cornwall; fare is typically $750 round trip in fall. You can also fly Ryanair from London Stansted to Newquay Cornwall Airport ( http://www.newquaycornwallairport.com); sale fares are sometimes as low as $30 round trip. Or fly nonstop from Dulles to Dublin on Aer Lingus (about $750 round trip) and take Air Southwest to Newquay Cornwall (about $223 round trip). Air Southwest also has service from London Gatwick to Newquay Cornwall (as low as $87 round trip).

WHERE TO STAY: There are plenty of historic hotels, as well as manors and other options. As dollar-shackled Americans, we chose to stay at a countryside B&B, Skyburriowe Farm House (Garras, Helston, Cornwall; from about $100, including full English hot breakfast, http://www.skyburriowefarm.co.uk), which is on a dairy farm.

WHAT TO DO: It's interesting to wander the car-free fishing village of Polperro. The Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing (at the harbor; 011-44-1503-272-423; http://www.polperro.org/museum.html; admission about $3.20) gives you a peek at two of Cornwall's historic industries. Plant lovers, gardeners and eco-enthusiasts could easily spend a day at the Eden Project (Bodelva, St. Austell: signposted from highway A391; 011-44-1726-811-911; http://www.edenproject.com; admission about $27). Be sure to leave time for the gift shop, full of sustainable products from around the world. For St. Michael's Mount (Marazion, 011-44-1736-710-265; http://www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk; admission about $12, gardens about $5.50), wear sturdy footgear for navigating the long, often-wet cobblestone pathway to the island and the steep path up to the castle. If you arrive or leave at high tide, you must take a small motorboat (about $2.75 per person). The Tate St. Ives (Porthmeor Beach, St. Ives; 011-44-1736-796-226; http://www.tate.org.uk/stives; admission about $10.50), a modern monolith, has gorgeous views of the town and ocean. We sat in the nosebleed section at the outdoor Minack Theatre (head for Porthcurno on Land's End, then look for signs; 011-44-1736-810-181 or 011-44-1736-810-471; http://www.minack.com; about $12.75 and $15.50) but had a great view; dress warmly and/or take a blanket; seats are stone. Tours are also offered during the daytime (about $6.35). Sweeping views, coastal pathways and the most southerly point in England can be found at Lizard Point ("the Lizard").

CLOTTED CREAM: I found clotted cream nirvana at Gwavas Jersey Farm (off the A3083, Ruan Minor, Helston; 011-44-1326-290-232; cell: 011-44-7973-690-232), where visitors are welcome. Calling ahead is recommended because this is a busy working farm and dairy. Establishments that serve Gwavas clotted cream include Old Cellars (Cadgwith; 011-44-1326-290-727); Little Trethvas Farm Cafe (the Lizard, Helston), Mullion Cove Hotel (Mullion; 011-44-1326-240-328; http://www.mullion-cove.co.uk), Polurrian Hotel (Mullion; 011-44-1326-240-421, http://www.polurrianhotel.com) and Rosewarne Manor (Gwinear Road, Connor Downs, Hayle; 011-44-1209-610-414; http://www.rosewarnemanor.co.uk).

FARM SHOPS: At Richards of Cornwall (just off the main Hayle roundabout of the A30, direction of Connor Downs; 011-44-1736-757-888, http://www.richardsofcornwall.co.uk; closed Sunday), we found Trewithen clotted cream (about $1.70 for four ounces). At Trevaskis Farm (farther on the same road, then look for signs to turnoff, 011-44-1209-713-931, http://www.trevaskisfarm.co.uk), cream tea is about $7.65.

INFO: Contact the Cornwall Tourist Board, 011-44-1872-322-900, http://www.visitcornwall.com.

-- G.K.