Good Pours at Every Price

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

At each of the five levels in the Burgundy pyramid are good -- even great -- wines that span the price spectrum. To find them at retail, go to http://www.winesearcher.com or http://www.wineaccess.com, or ask your favorite wine store to order.

Bourgogne

Bourgogne Blanc Terroirs de Cote d'Or 2006 Verget ($16)

Crisp, fresh, some citrus. Good.

Bourgogne Rouge 2005 Domaine Rene Leclerc ($26)

From a great vintage. Cherry and raspberry. Better than a simple Bourgogne.

Regional

Cote de Nuits Villages 2005 Bertrand Ambroise ($33)

Nice fruit and structure. A little rustic but good.

Petit Chablis 2006 Louis Michel ($23)

No oak here. Bright citrus and mineral flavors. Lots of acidity.

Village

Gevrey-Chambertin 2005 Louis Jadot ($45)

Well-made, structured pinot noir from a top negociant. A relative bargain as well.

Chambolle-Musigny 2006 Joseph Drouhin ($65)

The elegant, perfumed wines of Chambolle-Musigny are an ideal fit with the Drouhin style. Another very reliable negociant.

Premier Cru

Chablis Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent 2006 William Fevre ($65)

Has the minerality and power of a Grand Cru. I can never understand why the great wines of Chablis aren't more popular.

Volnay Clos des Ducs 2006 Marquis d'Angerville ($125)

Black cherry, spice, underbrush. Ripe fruit disguises quite powerful tannins. Persistent finish. Will improve with age.

Grand Cru

Batard-Montrachet 2006 Etienne Sauzet ($300)

I haven't tasted the 2006, but this wine has a great track record. Both the 2002 and 2005 are glorious, and the latter makes this price look cheap.

Chambertin Clos de Beze 2006 Faiveley ($230)

Again, I haven't tasted the new vintage, but this is another wine with a superb history. Pinot noir of real concentration and class, built for the long haul.

-- Joseph Ward