Where to Go, What to Know: Bermuda

Writer Walter Nicholls recently went to Bermuda to ride the Bermuda Railway Trail. Here is his reporter's notebook.

GETTING THERE

US Airways flies nonstop from Reagan National to Bermuda. Roundtrip fares start at $375 including taxes and fees.

GETTING AROUND

There are no rental cars on the island. To get from the airport to my guesthouse in Southampton parish, I took two public buses. The fare was $4.50. Tickets can be purchased at the information counter at the airport before Customs. (Taxi fare for that ride would have been about $45.) Bus passengers are limited to one suitcase and one carry-on.

I rented a mountain bike from Eve Cycles Ltd. at its Paget parish location, 110 Middle Rd., 441-236-6247, http://www.evecycles.com. (The company has a branch in St. George's, at 1 Water St., 441-236-0839.) A one-day rental (lock and helmet included) is $30; $50 for two days. Sea Express (441-295-6575, http://www.seaexpress.bm) operates a ferry system from one end of the island to the other. The ferry offers a super view of fabulous seaside villas. Fares range from $2.50 to $4 per trip.

STAYING THERE

Bermuda is expensive. An average hotel room is $200 and up in the off season (Nov. 1 to April 30) and $400 and up in the high season (May 1 to Oct. 31). I chose the Greene's Guest House (71 Middle Rd., 441-238-0834, http://www.thegreenesguesthouse.com) for its reasonable price ($150 per couple per night with full breakfast, plus a 7.25 percent tax and 15 percent gratuity charge) and its location, directly on the railway trail. For a few extra bucks, I would have preferred to stay in Sandys parish, at 9 Beaches (4 Daniels Head Lane, 866-841-9009 or 441-239-2999, http://www.9beaches.com), a casual eco-tourism resort on 18 waterfront acres, with 84 ocean-view cabanas, some perched on stilts over the water. Rates start at $195 per night and include a hot buffet breakfast. Granaway Guest House and Cottages (1 Longford Rd., 441-236-3747, http://www.granaway.com) in Warwick parish has lots of fans for its old colonial house with lush gardens. Rates start at $130 per night and include a continental breakfast.

EATING THERE

There are plenty of luxurious dining options in the upscale resorts. But outside Hamilton, there are relatively few restaurants and cafes for a moderately priced meal. East Meets West Cafe (11 Industrial Park Rd. ) serves good burgers, sandwiches and wraps for $8 to $10 at a takeout counter with patio seating. Adjoining, there's an Asian-inspired dining room with an extensive Indian menu. Dinner for two with beer is about $50. Owner Sharmila Gonsalvez also has a location in Hamilton: 27 Bermudiana Arcade.

WHAT TO DO

Why, ride a push bike, of course, on the 18-mile-long railway trail. Over three days, I visited secluded beaches, national parks and landmarks, such as Somerset Bridge, reputedly the smallest drawbridge in the world. Pack a lunch and plenty of water. There are no shops directly on the trail.

INFORMATION

Free maps of the Bermuda Railway Trail are available at the Visitor Information Center in Hamilton (69 Front St., 441-536-4636) and St. George's (8 York St., 441-297-8000) and at the parks office at the Bermuda Botanical Gardens (169 South Rd., Paget; 441-236-5902).

The Bermuda Railway Pages of trail enthusiast Simon Horn's Web site ( http://www.bermudarailway.net) has a well-researched history of the railway. For general island information: 800-BERMUDA; http://www.bermudatourism.com.

-- W.N.