DETAILS: How the Ships Shaped Up

Decor/Pool: The black-and-gold interior was dark, creepy and better suited to a seedy gentlemen's club. The two pools were a tight fit, and although the giant slide was fun, it wasn't such a blast if you were on the receiving end. Better was the underused pool on the bow.

· MAJESTY OF THE SEAS (2,744-passenger capacity, 73,941 tons, 880 feet)

Cabin: Though I could not twirl around the room, it was hardly claustrophobic, with a large bed, desk and small table, and a porthole with waves nipping at the glass. There was some elbow-knocking in the bathroom, but no serious injuries.

Dining: The buffet at the Windjammer Market was filling and fresh, with a nice array of salads and hot/cold stations (pasta, Asian, crepes, etc.). The dining rooms lived up to their white tablecloths, thanks to a phalanx of attentive waiters, a roving string trio and high-minded dishes such as scallop risotto and strawberry bisque. Other dining spots included Johnny Rockets ($3.95 cover charge), a pizza parlor and a deli.

Activities and Entertainment: For sports, the climbing wall on the top deck rocked. Otherwise, daily activities were a bit on the light side; during our at-sea day, for example, the belly-flop contest was the highlight. Evening distractions included a singer who did impressions (Bill Clinton performing "Brick House," for example), a rousing disco and a midnight buffet with ice sculptures carved by a culinary Rodin. A pianist and an acoustic guitarist led singalongs at the Schooner Bar, and the 14th-floor Viking Crown Lounge let cocktailers nearly touch the sky.

Decor/Pool: The boat is still in the throes of last year's $40 million renovation. Ergo, the vanilla carpeting is still clean. The tasteful teak trim around the pool helped me forget that I could not raise an arm without hitting another swimmer.

-- A.S.