Over the Edge, Norway Unfolds

High above the waters of the Lysefjord, Pulpit Rock offers spectacular views. More than 90,000 people a year make the two-hour trek to the overlook. (By Casper Tybjerg -- Innovasjon Norge)

The oil workers even shared Norwegian chocolate from their rucksacks. The peak behind shielded us from the wind, though once I stopped moving, I had to put my jacket and hat back on.

Other hikers were having lunch there, too: mostly Norwegians, but a German family was picnicking, and I passed two Americans on the way down.

Eventually, after I'd taken pictures from every conceivable angle and soaked in the blue sky (welcome after several days of cold rain), I headed down.

There are two routes down, and I took the "hill route," the path less traveled. In fact, I was the only one on that trail.

After getting a good view of Pulpit Rock from above and noticing that it isn't quite flat, I followed cairns and painted trail markers across a long rock slab.

At one point I couldn't find the next blaze and wondered if I'd have to retrace my steps, but I eventually located the red mark and descended into a grove of trees with ferns before rejoining the main path near the little lake.

Going down is much easier, but it still takes some effort to find the best way through the rocks. Crossing the flat wooden boardwalk over a marsh, flanked by tufts of pink heather, was a welcome respite.

Eventually, the lodge came into sight, the first sign of civilization in hours. By the end my knees were tired and I was sweaty, but I knew I could say that even though it was the offseason, I had experienced Norway. Especially after I celebrated with a fish dinner and a shot of the natives' eye-popping aquavit.