DETAILS: Riding the Rails in Eastern Canada

GETTING THERE: The Ocean, VIA Rail Canada's train from Montreal to Halifax, leaves six days a week in each direction, and sleeper cars, comfort class and multiple dining options are available year-round (888-842-7245, http://www.viarail.ca). From now through Dec. 19, sleeper rooms, where the bench seats convert to bunk beds, start at $171 per person based on double occupancy. Meals are not included but available at a price (see below). Comfort-class seats (which partially recline and have head- and footrests) go for $163 year-round. Easterly class service (with an onboard learning coordinator and a package that includes meals) is available only between June and October. This year, the total price was $315 per person based on double occupancy. Montreal is about 586 miles from Washington, a trip that requires about 10 1/2 hours of driving. Direct flights from Washington start at about $334 round trip, including taxes. Amtrak service from Washington to Montreal starts at about $73 each way for a 15-hour trip, although total travel time may be longer because of the border crossing.

WHERE TO STAY: Montreal and Halifax have a wealth of hotel options. With regard to the latter, I stayed at the Westin Nova Scotian, a handsome four-star property that's just steps from the Halifax train station and boasts a wonderfully warm indoor pool (1181 Hollis St., 877-993-7846, http://www.westin.ns.ca). Prices for a double typically start at about $108 a night plus taxes, although I paid $85 by bidding on Priceline. Another option on the same street is the Radisson Suite Hotel Halifax (1649 Hollis St., 800-333-3333, http://www.radissonhalifax.com), where doubles start at $99 plus tax. Both properties are convenient to the city's bustling harborfront area.

Through the end of the year, several Montreal hotels are participating in a "Sweet Deal Fall" promotion through which you can stay a second night for half the cost of the first one. Among the properties is the Four Points by Sheraton Montreal Centre-Ville (475 Sherbrooke St. W., 800-842-3961, http://www.fourpointsmontreal.com), which has rooms that start at about $100 for the first night plus taxes, and the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth (900 Rene-Levesque Blvd. W., 800-441-1414, http://www.fairmont.com), whose rooms start at $138.

WHERE TO EAT: A continental breakfast with yogurt and cereal in the Ocean's dining car will run you about $5, and lunch might be, depending on the day, a grilled cheese and bacon sandwich ($11); dinners are three-course affairs with such entrees as coq au vin ($15). Montreal and Halifax have reasonable dining options within a stone's throw of their respective train stations. Just two blocks from Montreal's Gare Centrale is Bofinger (1250 University St., 514-750-9095), which serves surprisingly good barbecue at great prices. (A bountiful brisket sandwich with a side and drink goes for $6.95, and a generous helping of poutine -- that old Montreal standby of french fries, gravy and cheese curds -- is $3.85.) Everyone's favorite breakfast spot in Halifax is the Bluenose II Restaurant and Grill (1824 Hollis St., 902-425-5092), where the pancakes and bacon ($5.40) will leave you full for hours. At lunchtime, the place goes Greek, boasting a pork souvlaki that's a terrific bargain at less than $9.

INFORMATION: Tourisme Montreal,877-266-5687, http://www.tourisme-montreal.org. Nova Scotia Department of Tourism, 800-565-0000, http://www.novascotia.com.

-- S.V.