Do It Yourself

Q: We have a top-brand storm door that has been in place for several years. The door has a cylindrical closer of the type I have seen on many such doors. However, the door closes much too slowly and lets in bugs in summer and cold air in winter. Can you help?

A: Storm-door closers are usually simple to adjust. Check the end of the cylinder near where it attaches to the door, and you will find a screw, usually with Phillips-type slots. Because you want faster closing, turn the screw slightly counterclockwise. Check the door each time you turn the screw a bit until you get the closing speed you want.

To slow the closing of a storm door, turn the screw clockwise.

Keep in mind that if the door closes too quickly, pets or children trying to slip out might get whacked. I have seen doors that actually slam shut. A moderate closing speed is best.

Q: Some of our interior doors are poor at preventing sound from coming through. How can I soundproof them? I don't want to buy new doors.

A: Those are probably hollow-core doors, which have a very thin layer of plywood on each side of a wood frame. I don't know of any practical or effective way to soundproof them. If the doors are loose in their frames and have gaps at the bottom, it might help a little to weather-strip them as you would an exterior door, closing the gaps that help let sound pass through. A variety of door-weather-stripping materials are sold at most home centers and hardware stores, including easy-to-install "sweeps" for door bottoms. Solid, panel-type doors are much better at blocking sound than the hollow-core type.

Q: I plan to take a long vacation this winter and am worried about my plumbing pipes freezing and possibly bursting. With the high cost of fuel, I don't want to leave the heater on at a low setting, as in the past. Can the pipes be drained so I can turn off the heat?

A: The pipes can be drained, but it is a tricky job because water can remain in some places, including toilets, the traps of tubs and showers, and in appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers. Non-poisonous antifreeze must be added to traps that retain water. Compressed air is sometimes needed to blow water out of appliances. The water heater should also be drained after its power is turned off. For these reasons, it is best to have an experienced plumber do the work, at least the first time. Watch and take notes, and you might be able to do it yourself next time.

People who live in cold climates but plan to stay home should also take a few steps to guard against pipe freezing. This includes closing shutoff valves to outside faucets (except the freeze-proof type), draining any water out of those faucets and leaving them open for the winter. Water pipes that run through cold areas such as crawl spaces and attics might need to be protected with heat tapes or cables, which automatically keep the pipes warm during freezing weather. For information on safely using heat tapes on water pipes, visit http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5045.html.

Questions and comments should be sent to Gene Austin, 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, Pa. 19422. Send e-mail to doit861@aol.com. Questions cannot be answered personally.