STAYING THERE: We settled on a Best Western hotel, the Phoenix (1-8 Kensington Garden Sq., 011-44-20-7229-2494, http://www.phoenixhotel.co.uk), because it was offered with our British Airways package and had a great location, in Bayswater. Rooms start at about $179 for singles, $246 for two, both including breakfast. A triple room through Dec. 14 is about $276.
WHERE TO GO: Prince William and pals have been spotted at the tropical-theme club Mahiki (1 Dover St., Mayfair, http://www.mahiki.com), complete with wait staff in beach dresses and Hawaiian shirts, which opens at 5:30 p.m. Monday-Friday (7:30 p.m. Saturday) and stays open till 3:30 a.m. Call to book a table or e-mail jane@mahiki.com. The dance club (techno-funk and British hip-hop) Boujis (43 Thurloe St., South Kensington, http://www.boujis.com), on the other hand, doesn't even open till 10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. We never made it to Kitts (7-12 Sloane Sq., Chelsea, http://www.kittslondon.co.uk), but it seems to aspire to decadence, judging by its Web site. It's open Wednesday-Saturday 10:30 p.m.-3 a.m. Whisky Mist (35 Hertford St., Mayfair, reservations@whiskymist.com) at the London Hilton on Park Lane opened this year and is owned by the people who operate Mahiki. It has been patronized recently by Prince Harry and his girlfriend, Chelsy Davy, and also by Prince William, Paris Hilton and princesses Beatrice and Eugenie.
WHAT TO DO: For shopping, there are several upscale department stores in London, of course -- Harrods and Harvey Nichols, to name two -- but Prince William was spotted shopping at Selfridges (400 Oxford St., near Marble Arch, 011-44-113-369-8040, http://www.selfridges.com), so that's where I went. In case you're interested in celebrities other than Prince William, the store is offering Steiff's limited-edition Karl Lagerfeld teddy bear (looks just like the famous designer, high collar, sunglasses and all -- really!) in its Concept Store for about $1,200. You don't have to be prince-stalking to go to Somerset House (The Strand, 011-44-20-7845-4600, http://www.somersethouse.org.uk), an arts and cultural center in the heart of London. The ice-skating rink where William took his girlfriend reopens in the palace's massive courtyard this Wednesday and is open 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m. most days through January. Romantic torch-lit nighttime skating sessions, 10:30-11:30 p.m., are about $22 per person. Check the Web site for dates. Regular 60-minute sessions start at about $16 for adults, about $11 for children 12 and younger, and can be booked through Ticketmaster (http://www.ticketmaster.co.uk). Price includes boot rental.
A visit to Windsor Castle (admission center at St. Albans Street and Castle Hill, Windsor, 011-44-20-7766-7304, http://www.royalcollection.org.uk), the world's largest and oldest inhabited castle, is always improved by buying an entrance ticket in advance. On Dec. 9, 10, 17 and 18, there are new, small (30-person) evening tours (5-7:30 p.m.) through the State Apartments. Tickets are about $75 per person (plus a booking fee of about $2 per ticket) and include a copy of the official guidebook. Book online at http://rceltickets.com or call 011-44-20-7766-7333. Tickets for daytime tours (9:45 a.m.-3 p.m. November-February, adults about $22, children 5-16 about $13) can be booked at the same site.
FOR ROYALTY RESEARCH: People magazine and its ilk are good, but you really have to check out the Sun (http://www.thesun.co.uk) and the Daily Mail gossip columns (http://www.dailymail.co.uk).
-- A.B.
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