At the Asian Market

Papaya (green and red): "I love it in its unripe stage. It's more like a vegetable," says Drewno.

Pomelo: "Like a giant grapefruit!" says Drewno.

Sugar cane (fresh): Put through a juicer and add to water for a simple syrup.

Condiments

Bean paste: One of the most versatile condiments, used in making kimchi and to add heat to bulgogi or anything grilled. "Try several. There are different degrees of spice," says Karoum.

Cantonese sauce (XO brand): a spicy Cognac-based condiment used to add heat to seafood and stir-fries.

Dried seafood (cod, anchovies, shrimp): For making fish stock.

Fish sauce (Three Crab or Squid brand): "I'm a fish sauce freak. It's my favorite ingredient," says Karoum.

Kimchi: Fresh Mart and H Mart offer dozens of types of kimchi, with an array of tastings on the weekends. At Super H Mart in Fairfax City, grocery workers make it fresh, assembling brined cabbage and a vat of chili powder, scallions, ginger, radish and pears. Choi and the chefs emphasized the importance of kimchi to Korean cooking. "Koreans can't live without it," says Choi. "Every house has a different kimchi recipe. In the north, it's not spicy at all and is very white. Just salt and pepper. As you go farther south, it's very, very spicy, to preserve cabbage in warm weather."

Soy sauce: Dark, Chinese soy sauces are more intense and should be used sparingly. Light, Japanese soy sauces are less potent. Drewno recommends Pearl River Bridge brand, "because I like that it tastes like mushroom and malt."

Sriracha: Thai hot sauce, nicknamed "rooster sauce" for the bird on the bottle.

Sweet chili sauce (Mai Ploy brand): Recommended as a com- plement to Sriracha and as a seafood or fried won ton condiment.

Other items

Rice paper wraps (Red Rose brand): Also called banh trang; used for making spring rolls. "Look for the rose on the label," says Drewno.

Soft tofu (Mr. Wang's brand): "Hard lasts longer, but soft tofu is more flavorful, closer to artisanal," says Drewno.

Wasabi peas (Hapi brand): "My favorites," Drewno says.

-- Melissa McCart