At the Asian Market

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Asian supermarkets sell a breadth of ingredients. Here are some of the favorites of chef Scott Drewno of the Source, chef Haidar Karoum of Proof and Korean home cook Yoon-Hee Heather Choi, along with some brand recommendations.

Herbs

Culantro: "It's a saw-toothed herb, like cilantro on crack," says Karoum. Both chefs use it in oxtail soup or in a slow braise, because hearty culantro holds up where the more delicate cilantro would not.

Curry leaves: "It's the ingredient you can't put your finger on, but it's the thing that often makes a curry complete," says Karoum.

Perilla (called shiso in Japanese cooking): Recommended by all three. "These are actually really good for doing grilled meats or crunchy egg rolls and wrapping them, Korean style," says Drewno. They're sometimes mislabeled "sesame leaves."

Thai basil: Recommended by all three as a wrap for crunchy Vietnamese egg rolls.

Other produce

Chinese sweet potato: Not as sweet as the American variety. "I steam them and eat them for breakfast," says Choi.

Fuyu persimmon: "A combination between apricot and tomato," says Karoum. Says Choi: "They're smooth and juicy. They're delicious on their own."

Galangal: Similar to ginger. Look for the whole hand, since cutting into pieces can dry it out.

Korean radish: "Much heartier than daikon for soups and stews," says Choi.

Korean pear: "Bigger than an Asian pear and sweeter," says Choi.

Korean chestnut: "Roast or steam and use with short ribs to flavor rice," says Choi.

Lotus stem: "Thinly slice this and add it to oxtail stew," says Drewno.

Papaya (green and red): "I love it in its unripe stage. It's more like a vegetable," says Drewno.

Pomelo: "Like a giant grapefruit!" says Drewno.

Sugar cane (fresh): Put through a juicer and add to water for a simple syrup.

Condiments

Bean paste: One of the most versatile condiments, used in making kimchi and to add heat to bulgogi or anything grilled. "Try several. There are different degrees of spice," says Karoum.

Cantonese sauce (XO brand): a spicy Cognac-based condiment used to add heat to seafood and stir-fries.

Dried seafood (cod, anchovies, shrimp): For making fish stock.

Fish sauce (Three Crab or Squid brand): "I'm a fish sauce freak. It's my favorite ingredient," says Karoum.

Kimchi: Fresh Mart and H Mart offer dozens of types of kimchi, with an array of tastings on the weekends. At Super H Mart in Fairfax City, grocery workers make it fresh, assembling brined cabbage and a vat of chili powder, scallions, ginger, radish and pears. Choi and the chefs emphasized the importance of kimchi to Korean cooking. "Koreans can't live without it," says Choi. "Every house has a different kimchi recipe. In the north, it's not spicy at all and is very white. Just salt and pepper. As you go farther south, it's very, very spicy, to preserve cabbage in warm weather."

Soy sauce: Dark, Chinese soy sauces are more intense and should be used sparingly. Light, Japanese soy sauces are less potent. Drewno recommends Pearl River Bridge brand, "because I like that it tastes like mushroom and malt."

Sriracha: Thai hot sauce, nicknamed "rooster sauce" for the bird on the bottle.

Sweet chili sauce (Mai Ploy brand): Recommended as a com- plement to Sriracha and as a seafood or fried won ton condiment.

Other items

Rice paper wraps (Red Rose brand): Also called banh trang; used for making spring rolls. "Look for the rose on the label," says Drewno.

Soft tofu (Mr. Wang's brand): "Hard lasts longer, but soft tofu is more flavorful, closer to artisanal," says Drewno.

Wasabi peas (Hapi brand): "My favorites," Drewno says.

-- Melissa McCart