It's Time to Sharpen Your Gardening Tools

· Pruning tools: Winter is the time for pruning. The most practical general-purpose cutting tool is one you can hold in one hand. Anvil pruners have a single blade that cuts onto a flat surface set into the jaw of the tool, while bypass pruners cut like scissors. Long-handled lopping shears are held with two hands, are available in either an anvil or bypass model, and will cut thicker tree and shrub limbs than those held in one hand.

Manual cutting tools require little maintenance. Place a little light oil on the pivot point, and clean and sharpen blades using a sharpening stone or fine-textured, flat metal file to remove burs and sharpen the bevel. Don't sharpen any pruner razor thin or change the angle of the bevel on the blade, which will cause it to lose its edge quickly. To extend blade life, don't remove deep nicks in blades, only small ones.

If the blade of an anvil pruner doesn't squarely hit the anvil, it will not make a clean cut on the plant. The anvil can be replaced if deep grooves develop.

Loppers are difficult to keep aligned and sharp because of leverage that can be applied due to the long handles, but they do provide extended reach. Don't cut branches that are more than an inch thick with this tool.

Loppers and hand pruners with ratchet action provide extra pressure for pruning through branches but will break if squeezed tightly.

Pruning saws are handiest for cutting branches thicker than three-quarters of an inch. Folding pruning saws fit neatly into their handle and can be carried in your pocket. Blades are curved and get wider toward the handle. Good ones are inexpensive and designed to cut by pulling toward you rather than pushing away. A nine- to 10-inch folding version should serve most tree pruning needs.

If you cut more than occasional branches three or four inches in diameter, use a 21-inch bow saw with a comfortable grip. Blades should be replaced when dull, and plastic covers should be kept on them when not in use.

· Long-handled gardening tools: Use a round-pointed spading shovel with a 48-inch handle for digging holes and turning soil. Heavier digging blades are most efficient because they hold pointed edges better and will not twist and bend. To ready digging edges, hone them with a fine-textured, flat metal file to remove burs, nicks and dullness. Leave the edge somewhat blunt or thick so you won't wear it down too quickly. It should be sharp enough to dig through tree roots.

If you must dig holes or a trench, especially through rocks and tree roots, use a mattock with a cutter or pickax-type head and a 36-inch handle. It's also an excellent tool for planting bulbs and perennials. The heavy steel of mattocks stand up to lots of chopping and digging without dulling the ends of the tool.

Pitchforks are the most practical tool for turning compost piles, spreading mulch or lifting yard debris. Use a heavy-duty, five- or six-tine manure fork with a 54-inch handle. Manure forks' metal tines seldom need honing, and if they're not parallel, they're flexible enough to bend back into line.