It's Time to Sharpen Your Gardening Tools

By Joel M. Lerner
Saturday, January 10, 2009

"Man is a tool-using animal . . . without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all," wrote Scottish essayist Thomas Carlyle.

Mowing, planting, pruning, raking, spraying, spreading and transplanting are easy with good tools -- and difficult without them. Make sure you have the proper tools to maintain your garden, and that you're maintaining them properly. Winter is a great time to do that.

· Lawn mowers: The Outdoor Power Equipment Institute says users of gasoline rotary mowers should drain the tanks outdoors or in well-ventilated areas in the winter. Pour a small amount of light oil into the cylinder, and pull the rope to turn the engine several times. Replace the plug and clean the outside of the mower. Store it and the gas in a well-ventilated, protected area that is away from flames.

To get good service from gasoline-powered mowers, keep the blades sharp, change the oil and clean the air filter after 20 to 25 hours of operation. Change the spark plug after every 100 hours. Lubricate wheels with No. 2 multipurpose lithium grease, if the mower has fittings. Two-cycle engines burn mixtures of gas and oil, and while they don't need oil changes, they probably pollute the air more than other types of mowers.

Electric mowers are low maintenance -- just keep the blade sharp. In the case of AC-powered units, purchase extension cords long enough to reach the boundaries of your lawn, and be careful not to run over them.

For those who favor the old-fashioned way, new versions of the reel-type push mower do an excellent job if the lawn is mowed regularly. Reel-type mowers are fun and easy to use and don't require winterizing. Keep the blades sharp, and use a little WD-40 lubricant on the cutting surface and axle shafts every few weeks.

Choose mowers with an emphasis on safety, including toe guards, rear deflectors, extended discharge chutes, lower revolutions per minute and automatic shut-off when your hands leave the mower. Before your first mowing in spring, clear rocks, cans, wires and other debris, and always mow in long pants and sturdy shoes.

· Spreaders and sprayers: The only way to ensure accurate and even distribution of dry fertilizer, weed killer or insect control is by using a drop spreader, which drops material through holes in bottom of a hopper. Broadcast spreaders throw material six to 10 feet in circular patterns and should not be used for weed killer or insecticide because of their inaccuracy. However, they are perfect for grass seed, lime, gypsum, fertilizer, fine-textured compost and even ice-melting salts during the winter.

Use sprayer tanks to apply liquid nutrients and pesticides. Plastic pump sprayers are lightweight, and plastic is non-corrosive. Keep two -- one for brush killer and one for lawn weeds, fertilizer and insecticide.

Thoroughly clean sprayers and spreaders after every use. Many landscape chemicals are extremely corrosive, and failure to clean your equipment before storing it for winter might necessitate replacing parts or purchasing new ones.

· Pruning tools: Winter is the time for pruning. The most practical general-purpose cutting tool is one you can hold in one hand. Anvil pruners have a single blade that cuts onto a flat surface set into the jaw of the tool, while bypass pruners cut like scissors. Long-handled lopping shears are held with two hands, are available in either an anvil or bypass model, and will cut thicker tree and shrub limbs than those held in one hand.

Manual cutting tools require little maintenance. Place a little light oil on the pivot point, and clean and sharpen blades using a sharpening stone or fine-textured, flat metal file to remove burs and sharpen the bevel. Don't sharpen any pruner razor thin or change the angle of the bevel on the blade, which will cause it to lose its edge quickly. To extend blade life, don't remove deep nicks in blades, only small ones.

If the blade of an anvil pruner doesn't squarely hit the anvil, it will not make a clean cut on the plant. The anvil can be replaced if deep grooves develop.

Loppers are difficult to keep aligned and sharp because of leverage that can be applied due to the long handles, but they do provide extended reach. Don't cut branches that are more than an inch thick with this tool.

Loppers and hand pruners with ratchet action provide extra pressure for pruning through branches but will break if squeezed tightly.

Pruning saws are handiest for cutting branches thicker than three-quarters of an inch. Folding pruning saws fit neatly into their handle and can be carried in your pocket. Blades are curved and get wider toward the handle. Good ones are inexpensive and designed to cut by pulling toward you rather than pushing away. A nine- to 10-inch folding version should serve most tree pruning needs.

If you cut more than occasional branches three or four inches in diameter, use a 21-inch bow saw with a comfortable grip. Blades should be replaced when dull, and plastic covers should be kept on them when not in use.

· Long-handled gardening tools: Use a round-pointed spading shovel with a 48-inch handle for digging holes and turning soil. Heavier digging blades are most efficient because they hold pointed edges better and will not twist and bend. To ready digging edges, hone them with a fine-textured, flat metal file to remove burs, nicks and dullness. Leave the edge somewhat blunt or thick so you won't wear it down too quickly. It should be sharp enough to dig through tree roots.

If you must dig holes or a trench, especially through rocks and tree roots, use a mattock with a cutter or pickax-type head and a 36-inch handle. It's also an excellent tool for planting bulbs and perennials. The heavy steel of mattocks stand up to lots of chopping and digging without dulling the ends of the tool.

Pitchforks are the most practical tool for turning compost piles, spreading mulch or lifting yard debris. Use a heavy-duty, five- or six-tine manure fork with a 54-inch handle. Manure forks' metal tines seldom need honing, and if they're not parallel, they're flexible enough to bend back into line.

· Handles: While fiberglass tool handles have far more tensile strength than wood, a smooth, well-cared-for wooden handle is less likely to cause blisters.

Get wooden handles in shape and reduce splinters by sanding them with fine sandpaper and rubbing a mixture of linseed oil and kerosene into the grain. Use kerosene to make linseed thin enough to soak into wood. Oil handles outdoors or in a well-ventilated area to keep from inhaling fumes.

Now, get into your workshop, and organize and tighten up all the nuts and bolts on your garden equipment. Check air pressure in wheelbarrow tires, and smooth, straighten and replace handles on other tools. Check your garden hose for leaks, and make sure you have enough length.

The real satisfaction will come when you are working with your well-maintained tools in the garden.

Joel M. Lerner is president of Environmental Design in Capitol View Park, Md. E-mail or contact him through his Web site, http://www.gardenlerner.com.