DETAILS: Zion in Winter

GETTING THERE: Delta and United offer connecting service from Washington to St. George, Utah, a 45-minute drive from Zion National Park. Winter flights start at about $425 round trip. A cheaper option is to fly into Las Vegas and drive three hours to Zion, in southwestern Utah. Most major airlines fly this route, with fares from about $300 round trip.

WHERE TO STAY: Zion Lodge (888-297-2757, http://www.zionlodge.com) is the only hotel inside the park and is within walking distance of some of the most popular hiking trails. Accommodations include cabins, motel rooms and suites; rates from $80 a night.

Springdale, Utah, the closest town to the park's south entrance, has a range of overnight options. We stayed at the new Cable Mountain Lodge (147 Zion Park Blvd., 877-712-3366, http://www.cablemountainlodge.com), which offers nice suites with well-equipped kitchenettes and is near the visitors center. From $89. The Desert Pearl Inn (707 Zion Park Blvd., 888-828-0898, http://www.desertpearl.com) sits on the bank of the Virgin River and is less than a mile from the park entrance. Modern rooms are decorated with reclaimed Douglas fir and redwood from a 19th-century railroad trestle. From $98.

WHERE TO EAT: In Springdale, kick-start your morning at the Mean Bean Coffee House (932 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-0654), a local favorite. Grab a sandwich for an on-trail lunch at Sol Foods Market & Deli (95 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-0277). Oscar's Cafe (948 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-3232) provides the perfect post-canyoneering reward: half-pound burgers (from $10) and locally brewed beers on tap. The Bit & Spur (1212 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-3498) offers upscale Mexican cuisine, including fresh-fruit margaritas ($6), pork carnitas and pollo relleno. Entrees from $18.

WHAT TO DO: For a good overview, take a Zion Outback Safari Tour (866-948-6494, http://zionjeeptours.com; $57 per person) in an open-air truck that traverses the backcountry. The three-hour guided trip includes information on the area's history, settlement and geology. Watch a movie at the Zion Canyon Giant Screen Theatre (145 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 888-256-3456, http://www.zioncanyontheatre.com; $8-$10), which shows films about the park as well as other educational flicks. It's best to call to confirm hours for all Zion businesses.

At Zion, most visitors head to Zion Canyon, at the south end of the park. Stop at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center just past the gate to talk to a ranger about weather conditions. Zion Canyon Scenic Drive provides a scenic, six-mile trip into the canyon. Cyclists can bike along that road and along the Pa'rus Trail, a paved, car-free route. Popular hikes in Zion Canyon include Riverside Walk, Emerald Pools and Angels Landing. Follow State Road 9 through the park to the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway, which passes through a sandstone tunnel built in the 1920s. For snowier territory, head north to the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center off Interstate 15. A seven-day Zion pass costs $12 per pedestrian or bike, $25 per car.

OUTFITTERS: Zion Adventure Co. (two locations in Springdale, including 868 Zion Park Blvd., 425-772-0990, http://www.zionadventures.com) and Zion Rock Guides (1458 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-3303, http://www.zionrockguides.com) offer canyoneering trips for all levels, in addition to guided hikes, rock-climbing instruction, cycling trips and equipment rental. Basic canyoneering day trips start at $100 and include all gear. At Zion Cycles (868 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-0400, http://www.zioncycles.com), bike rentals start at $15 an hour.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Zion National Park, 435-772-3256, http://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm; Zion Canyon Visitors Bureau, 888-518-7070, http://www.zionpark.com.

-- K.H.