Tom Sietsema's Dish

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

SOUTHERN EXPOSURE: Restaurateur Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld has pulled the plug on his not-quite-two-year-old Ceviche in Glover Park, which closed after New Year's Eve.

"Great concept, wrong location," says the man behind such trendy area venues as Yaku in Arlington, Chi-Cha Lounge on U Street NW and the original Ceviche in Silver Spring, which will remain open.

He's giving a new identity to the site of the shuttered business, and it won't be dark for long. Emerging Friday, provided its remodel is complete: Kitchen (2404 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-333-3877), celebrating the food of the South, with a 70-seat interior that sounds atypical of Fraga-Rosenfeld's usual sleek settings. Brick and refurbished barn wood will cover the walls; a mix of chairs collected from the Salvation Army and elsewhere, then painted white, will frame the tables.

As for the bar, look for John Deere tractor seats atop the stools.

A five-year veteran of Jaleo in Bethesda, Brandon Williams, 33, has been tapped to fry the chicken, toss the green bean salad and bake the peach cobbler at Kitchen. Fraga-Rosenfeld says he plans to serve dinner daily and brunch on the weekends and to keep the doors open until 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Entrees are expected to run from $10 to $18.

-- Tom Sietsema

© 2009 The Washington Post Company