Good to Go: The General Store in Silver Spring

It has taken almost three years for chef Gillian Clark and partner Robin Smith to bring this old-time takeout place to Silver Spring, and just two weeks to get the kind of feedback they had hoped for.

The pair left behind a legacy of shrimp and grits and really good brunch at their now-closed Colorado Kitchen. Clark wondered whether anyone would recognize her as the new shop's short-order cook, doing a short roster of simple food.

Clark also left behind her famous doughnuts, but her former "noodles and cheese" have become the General Store's macaroni and cheese (12 ounces, $5), with unexpectedly crunchy bits of jalapeño pepper and onion.

For now, it appears Clark's fried chicken is a major draw, served with bacon-y collard greens and perfect corn bread (quarter-chicken, $7; half, $9; whole, $16). The chef soaks the chicken pieces in buttermilk, garlic and hot sauce then puts a good scald on them, as old hands like to say.

We predict it won't take long for the Crispy Shrimp on Baguette ($10) to emerge as a runner-up favorite, with its perfectly fried seafood and an herby remoulade. Clark's fish tacos might be the best bargain on the menu; generous portions of farm-raised fried tilapia, dollops of chunky guacamole and thin radish slices fill three soft corn tortillas ($8).

The curried tuna salad has nicely balanced seasoning and makes a meaty sandwich filling ($6). A rich beef stew ($8) and a curiously mild house chili with beef and beans ($8, with corn bread) are hearty portions at 16 ounces each.

Get lucky and the daily Slice o' Pie ($5) might be lemon chess, a collaborative effort: Smith's bright and creamy filling, Clark's buttery, tender crust.

Breakfast sandwiches are served until 11:30 a.m. on weekdays. The basic model ($6) has tender scrambled egg and crisp shredded potato on a soft ciabatta roll; sausage or bacon or fresh vegetables or cheddar cheese costs extra and adds enough heft to serve two.

The General Store's mercantile theme, evident in the selection of pop in the refrigerated case and in vintage ad prints on the walls, makes for fun sipping and reading while your order is being filled. (As of press time, the food was still takeout only, as Clark and Smith awaited imminent paperwork on an approved Montgomery County parking waiver that also has delayed the opening of their Post Office Tavern, on the basement level.)

About that feedback: By Sunday night at 6, the General Store had run out of food, having fried the last of its 720 pieces of chicken for the week. Feeling a little giddy, the owners closed the shop early. "I think we're going to have to up our order," Clark said.

-- Bonnie S. Benwick

The General Store 6 Post Office Rd., Silver Spring, 301-562-8787. Hours: Tuesdays through Fridays, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays, 1:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.