A Champion Exits Early

What impressed us about Round One was how well matched the competing beers were. Of the 16 head-to-head taste-offs, 11 were decided by a 3-2 vote. There were no unanimous decisions.

It was a tough round for rookies. Fourteen of our contestants came from breweries that had never before sent a beer to Beer Madness, and only six of those advanced.

Surf wasn't up for Hawaii's Longboard Island Lager, which was upended, 3-2, by the top seed in the lager category, the Raven Special Lager. And oy vey! He'Brew the Chosen Beer Genesis Ale lost an equally close decision to Stoudts Scarlet Lady Ale. ("I could cuddle up in front of a fire with this beer," wrote one admirer of the latter.)

In the specialty category, we had high hopes for the Southampton Double White Ale, a Belgian-style witbier on steroids from a microbrewery known for pushing the envelope. But it drew a formidable opponent in Hennepin, a complex and highly drinkable farmhouse ale from Brewery Ommegang. Edge to Hennepin, 3-2.

Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat was a love-it-or-leave-it kind of beer. Conflicting responses included, "Kirschwasser in a bottle! I like a sundae with a cherry on top, not a beer!" and "Smells delicious, like a cherry lollipop." It managed to nudge out Saranac Pomegranate Wheat, 3-2.

We had some trepidation about including brew pub beers, as they are drawn fresh from the serving tank and escape many of the hazards that can reduce bottled beer to swill (age, heat, exposure to UV rays). Would these beers have an unfair advantage? Apparently not. Of the three, only Gordon Biersch Marzen made it to Round Two. Capitol City Amber Waves Ale bowed to Troegs HopBack Amber Ale, and Rock Bottom's Ballston Brown was KO'd by Bell's Kalamazoo Stout.

The second-biggest surprise of Round One: Bud Light Lime, a little out of its league in competition with so many microbrews, eked out a 3-2 victory over Leinenkugel Honey Weiss. Our panelists tended to damn it with faint praise, though. One wrote that it's what you would get "if you mixed champagne and a light beer and a little bit of lime jello."

Because Budweiser American Ale trounced Peak Organic Amber, 4-1, that leaves Anheuser-Busch two for two.

The biggest surprise of Round One: Hook & Ladder Backdraft Brown, last year's champion, was nosed out, 3-2, by the much-fuller-bodied Dominion Oak Barrel Stout. "The first mismatch of the evening -- a bantamweight versus a heavyweight," wrote one taster.

But such is the luck of the draw, and such is Beer Madness.

-- Greg Kitsock