Dish

MULLING THEIR FUTURES: A familiar face has taken over the kitchen at downtown's beloved C.F. Folks (1225 19th St. NW; 202-293-0162): George Vetsch, the Swiss native whose 27-year cooking career in the Washington area spans such diverse restaurants as the late Etrusco, Circle Bistro and the Oval Room.

"It's like family," Vetsch says of his first few weeks of work at the lunch-only shoebox owned by Art Carlson. The ever-present host behind the Formica counter returns the compliment when he refers to his new chef, who turns 50 this month and was previously seen at Le Mistral in McLean, as "a real find."

A veteran of high-end kitchens, Vetsch is still adjusting to his new digs. He shares the cafe's tiny kitchen with his only support staff, a sandwich maker. C.F. Folks's gentle prices mean forgoing lobster in favor of clams, although Carlson, 66, is the kind of boss who cares about quality. (Only real Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese will do.)

Even bigger changes may be in store for the cafe. Vetsch and Carlson view the next six months or so as a trial period, during which they'll determine whether the fit is right for the younger man to take over the operation. Carlson says he's "amenable" to selling the eatery, which has a dozen years left on its lease.

Perhaps the most intriguing idea is the possible extension of hours at C.F. Folks. Carlson is thinking of serving a fixed-price dinner Wednesdays through Saturdays, possibly beginning this fall.

-- Tom Sietsema