Thursday, May 7, 2009
Runway: 3.1 Phillip Lim
For Lim's spring collection, the designer requested a beauty look highlighted by a "haunting Arabian eye," inspired by photographer Steve McCurry's iconic "Afghan Girl" image from the June 1985 issue of National Geographic. Ayako, makeup guru for NARS Cosmetics, went for a gypsylike effect with bold crimson eye shadow and multiple layers of electric blue and black eyeliner. "I love this look of striking yet innocent, creamy, smoky eyes with blue eyeliner," Ayako says via e-mail. She finished the look by blending NARS creamy matte Multiple Bronzer on the forehead, cheeks, tip of the nose and chin.
"A lot of times the runway shows are about a fantasy, so you have to break it down to be completely wearable and accessible," says Kim Steele, a local makeup artist-stylist. Her tips:
1. Re-create Ayako's finishing technique with a matte bronzing powder: "Apply it on the eyelids, cheeks, forehead, down the bridge of the nose and on the chin."
2. Try Lancôme's Le Crayon Khôl Waterproof in Confidence Noir for the exotic eye look. "Line the top portion of the eye, smudging it down into the lashes so that it's defined but not stark. Do the same under the lashes as well, and then apply a cobalt blue eye shadow as close as possible to the lower lash line, layering on top of the eyeliner."
3. Swap the runway's metallic raspberry lipstick for a berry-tinted lip stain, such as Benefit's Benetint. "It's less 'done' . . . it gives more of a look like you just ate a popsicle," she says.
Designer Frida Giannini looked to supermodel Veruschka and a jaunt to Acapulco for her spring collection for Gucci, and beauty pro Pat McGrath, who works with CoverGirl and Max Factor, went with a high-fashion 1970s disco look to complement the line. "Colorful, flamboyant and sexy," McGrath says of the smoky metallic teal eyes and heavy lashes. She highlighted brow bones with pale green shadow, slicked on black liquid liner and finished with false top lashes and a swipe of CoverGirl's Wetslicks nude gloss infused with mint.
To pull off Gucci's intense eye makeup look, Steele opts for more subtle takes on the eyeliner and shadow. Her tips:
1. Heavily line eyes with the Lancôme pencil used in the Lim look, smudging into top and bottom lashes. Swipe a matte espresso eye shadow over the liner and use an eye shadow brush to wing out the line on the upper lid, creating a cat-eye look.
2. Apply a mid-tone shimmery turquoise powder, such as MAC Cosmetics' version in Clarity, to the center of the eyelid. Blend the shadow out to the edge of the eyeliner, then use a fingertip to blend the two together, creating a smoky effect.
3. For lust-worthy lashes, use an eyelash curler and sweep on two heavy coats of L'Oréal Voluminous mascara in Carbon Black. For more drama, apply single false lashes just on the outer edges of the eye.
4. Define cheekbones with a matte bronzing powder and finish the look with a nude lip pencil and clear lip gloss.
-- Holly E. Thomas