The Boardwalk And Beyond

Earlier this spring, town officials in Ocean City passed an ordinance that would limit displays of shirts for sale along the boardwalk to ones not including profanity or sexually explicit messages, or references to drugs or alcohol. The transition has begun, but the fact that they had to make such a rule offers further proof (if any is needed) of the kind of reputation Ocean City has developed. So why would you want to take your family or classy friends to Maryland's shore?

Because there is so much more to it if you venture beyond the boardwalk. There are slices of Smith Island cake, a fruity drink that even bikers sip and fist-size crab cakes. There are friendly locals, evening baseball games and s'mores before bed.

After driving three hours from Washington along Route 50, you'll probably be ready for some good food. Before crossing the bridge into Ocean City, head to the harbor. Locals know that the restaurants that border the harbor offer the top seafood in the area. For crab cakes, head to the Captain's Galley II. The broiled crab cake sandwich offers almost impossibly large chunks of crab with only enough filler to keep everything neat.

Next, head to Castaways, a campground not far from the Captain's Galley II, to set up your tent. A tent under the stars has its advantages over a hotel on the boardwalk. Not only is it less expensive, it is much more family-friendly, with fire pits for s'more making, evening activities and a stretch of private beach that looks across Sinepuxent Bay to Assateague Island. On a cool summer evening, you are more likely to hear the calming sounds of waves and crickets here than on the still-busy boardwalk.

But the boardwalk does have unique offerings, among them classic culinary delights from Thrasher's fries and Fisher's Popcorn. Both institutions have been part of the boardwalk for more than 70 years, and it's easy to see why: Fries dripping with vinegar and stick-to-your-teeth hot caramel popcorn are hard to resist.

If you're inclined to catch some rays, head north for a better chance at beach blanket space. Plus, you will want to be near 28th Street when Mother's Cantina starts offering $1 tacos. One of the best deals in Ocean City, the bar and restaurant offers the rare combination of delicious and inexpensive fare from 4 to 7 p.m. Three tacos with an appetizer of chips and salsa are enough to fill you up.

Finish dinner in time to head to Salisbury for a Delmarva Shorebirds game. It is worth driving 35 minutes from the shore to watch the Orioles' minor league affiliate and to check out the Eastern Shore Baseball Hall of Fame Museum. Learn about local players who made it big and then watch the future major leaguers play. If you go on Saturday and you will be treated to postgame fireworks.

If you must have a drink, end the night with an Orange Crush at Harborside Bar & Grill. Even the bikers who frequent the bar love to sip the fruity, fizzy and refreshing drink of orange-flavored Smirnoff vodka, triple sec, Sprite and the juice of an orange.

Before driving back to Washington be sure to stop by the Pink Box Bakery and Cafe in Berlin. Nothing like neighboring Ocean City, Berlin is packed with antique shops and quaint cafes. At Pink Box, owner and baker Roberta Ward exudes shore charm and loves baking for and chatting with everyone who walks through her door. Ward says customers squeal with delight when they see her Smith Island Cake, Maryland's state dessert, with its eight thin yellow layers and chocolate icing stacked tall.

Buy a slice or two for the ride home and you will realize you can leave Ocean City with something other than a hangover.