Where to Go, What to Do in Chacahua, Mexico

GETTING THERE: United and Mexicana airlines offer connecting service to Puerto Escondido, the nearest airport to Chacahua, from Washington area airports, starting at about $532, but the sometimes 20 hours of connections ensure that Chacahua remains off the beaten path, at least for East Coasters. A Continental-Mexicana combo from BWI Marshall clocks in at 10 1/2 hours, for $855. From Puerto Escondido, a private taxi (about $24) can take you on a 1 1/4 -hour ride to El Zapotalito. Or take a shared van (about $2) from Puerto Escondido to Rio Grande. In Rio Grande, jump in a shared taxi (about $5.50) to El Zapotalito. Once at the dock, you can get on a public ferry (about $1.35) or hire a private boat (about $24).

If you take the boat only to the edge of the island, a public pickup truck (about $1.35) will take you into town.

GETTING AROUND: Individuals and groups can hire private boats to tour the lagoons for about $60. Ask for the lagoons and anyone can direct you.

WHERE TO STAY: The east-lagoon half of Chacahua village is home to the isolated Chacahua beach. There, Cabanas Siete Mares (011-45-954-540-6903, ask for Luis) has five quaint bungalows with a plum spot on the beach adjacent to the Siete Mares restaurant. Rooms have an electric fan and private shower and toilet, and range from $14 to $21 per night. Cabanas Punto de Quiebra is perfect for backpackers concerned more about price than about ambiance. The cheapest rooms -- without personal bathrooms -- go for $7 per night. Cabanas Los Almendros (same number as Siete Mares, just ask for Reynaldo) is ideal for the lagoons leg of your trip. Facing the national park, the bungalow on the second story of the guesthouse has the best view and decor. From $13 per night.

WHERE TO EAT: Chacahua has excellent seafood, and the beach has its own rustic "restaurant row." Restaurant Siete Mares, the open-air restaurant at the end of the beach, has one of the cheapest menus on the island: about $7 per person for an entree and two beers. Restaurant Punto de Quiebra, run by charming Paulina, has several tasty brunch dishes, including the enchiladas and eggs done in various styles. All items less than $6. Restaurant Los Delfines, run by the matron Juana, is a nice alternative to the restaurants above. Similar fare and prices, but usually less crowded -- for when you want a more peaceful meal.

WHAT TO DO: The National Institute of Ecology runs a Crocodile Sanctuary in Chacahua Lagoons National Park, on the mainland side of Chacahua. Lagoon tours are available; just ask at the restaurants. (Take binoculars with you; the bird-watching is terrific.)

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Information on the Chacahua Lagoons National Park is at http://www.lagunasdechacahua.com. For more-general Mexico information, consult the Mexican Tourism Board at http://www.visitmexico.com.

-- A.O.