Where to Go, What to Do in Peru

Sunday, September 6, 2009


Connecting flights from Washington to Lima start at $320 round trip. To access the South Coast, take the Pan-American Highway south from Lima. We took buses (slow, but cheap and reliable) to major crossroads along the highway, then hired drivers for side excursions.


La Castellana Hotel, Grimaldo del Solar 222, Miraflores, 011-51-1-444-3530, http://www.castellanahotel.com/english. Adequate rooms, with full bath and cable TV but little natural light. Also features a nice courtyard for breakfast. Doubles from $73 per night.

Hotel Antigua Miraflores, Avenida Grau 350, Miraflores, 011-51-1-241-6116, http://www.peru-hotels-inns.com. A converted colonial mansion with beautiful art, pleasant sitting areas and a fair trade shop in the lobby. Doubles from $90.

Rio Alto, Carretera Canete, Kilometer 38.5, Lunahuana, 011-51-1-284-1125, http://www.rioaltohotel.com. The hotel, set on a hill above the Rio Canete, has a bright indoor restaurant, a lovely courtyard with a shaded dining area and a pool. Doubles from about $40.

El Mirador, Carretera Paracas, Kilometer 20, Paracas, 011-51-56-545-086, http://www.elmiradorhotel.com. A good jumping-off spot for a tour of Islas Ballestas and Paracas National Reserve. Doubles from $53, including breakfast.


Malabar, Camino Real 101, San Isidro, Lima, 011-51-1-440-5200. Inventive use of Amazonian roots, herbs and vegetables; delicate batters; fresh seafood; and dipping sauces. Malabar also has one of the nicest bars in Lima. Entrees from about $18.

L'Eau Vive, Ucayali 370, Lima, 011-51-1-427-5612. The high-end restaurant, set in a converted colonial mansion, offers a daily three-course lunch menu for about $12.

El 21, Playa La Herradura. This restaurant, on the southern edge of Lima, prepares great ceviche and choros (mussels with traditional Peruvian salsa). Lunch from about $10, including beers.

Melchorita, Jr. Grau 150, Lunahuana, 011-51-1-284-1356. This unassuming-looking thatch restaurant serves up huge crawfish from the Rio Canete. Entrees from about $6.

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