Where to Go, What to Do in Peru
Connecting flights from Washington to Lima start at $320 round trip. To access the South Coast, take the Pan-American Highway south from Lima. We took buses (slow, but cheap and reliable) to major crossroads along the highway, then hired drivers for side excursions.
WHERE TO STAY
La Castellana Hotel, Grimaldo del Solar 222, Miraflores, 011-51-1-444-3530, http:/
Hotel Antigua Miraflores, Avenida Grau 350, Miraflores, 011-51-1-241-6116, http:/
Rio Alto, Carretera Canete, Kilometer 38.5, Lunahuana, 011-51-1-284-1125, http:/
El Mirador, Carretera Paracas, Kilometer 20, Paracas, 011-51-56-545-086, http:/
WHERE TO EAT
Malabar, Camino Real 101, San Isidro, Lima, 011-51-1-440-5200. Inventive use of Amazonian roots, herbs and vegetables; delicate batters; fresh seafood; and dipping sauces. Malabar also has one of the nicest bars in Lima. Entrees from about $18.
L'Eau Vive, Ucayali 370, Lima, 011-51-1-427-5612. The high-end restaurant, set in a converted colonial mansion, offers a daily three-course lunch menu for about $12.
El 21, Playa La Herradura. This restaurant, on the southern edge of Lima, prepares great ceviche and choros (mussels with traditional Peruvian salsa). Lunch from about $10, including beers.
Melchorita, Jr. Grau 150, Lunahuana, 011-51-1-284-1356. This unassuming-looking thatch restaurant serves up huge crawfish from the Rio Canete. Entrees from about $6.