From bulbs to fertilizer, fall gardening season is upon us

Since the beginning of July, rainfall in the Washington area has been five inches below normal. Tulip poplars yellowed early, and some late-blooming perennials and repeat-blooming plants, like roses, asters and irises, were disappointing in their second show of flowers. Last week's rain arrived just in time to get us back into fall gardening tasks.

Soil moisture is back and temperatures are cool enough for it to stay moist, so apply an organic fall fertilizer for lawn and trees. Water it in deeply for the root system to absorb it by mid-November. If you miss this mark, wait until mid-March to feed lawn and trees.

Annuals' show of blooms is beginning to slow. Bring some clumps indoors to propagate for next season. This requires at least 50 percent humidity, sunny conditions, and a greenhouse and/or grow lights for maximum success. Between now and the beginning of March, take four six-inch-long cuttings and dip them in a rooting hormone like Root Tone, and start rooting plants for spring. Perlite is a good medium to use. Cuttings from wax begonias, impatiens, coleus, marigolds, geraniums and salvias are some annuals that clone easily this way.

Chrysanthemums are perennials often treated as annuals and discarded at the end of the season. If left in ground, they will grow back in spring. Cut plants back to within an inch or two of the plant base when fall flowering stops, and protect the roots with two to three inches of mulch. As new growth begins, when stems attain six to eight inches, pinch them in half. Then pinch the top leaf buds again in June and July. Flower buds will form through July and August and be much fuller because of this. Add a 5-10-5 fertilizer, or a close equivalent, with each pinching to further enhance growth.

Now is the best time to install spring bulbs. Many of them, especially tulips, prefer November planting. As long as there is good moisture and drainage, most seasoned bulbs have the nutrition for foliage and flowers they need already stored in their root system from last year's growth. Planting them late in the season discourages fungal diseases. Mix generous amounts of compost with native soil, and use 9-9-9 Bulb Booster. To avoid direct contact with bulbs, only spread fertilizer on soil surface after planting. Hybrid tulips generally have the most to gain from fertilizer. Unfortunately, deer love tulips, so plant them in enclosed areas or apply deer repellent as foliage emerges.

Deer don't eat daffodils. Install them in a random natural style in groups of at least 10 to 15 bulbs throughout woodlands or perennial borders. The only problem I have with designing daffodils is lack of aesthetics while they are seasoning. The foliage can take weeks to season, turning yellow, then brown. One way to disguise daffodil foliage is by planting them with a hybrid of the perennial commonly called false spiraea (Astilbe X arendsii). It emerges from the ground as daffodils flower. While bulbs are seasoning, astilbe is growing around daffodil foliage holding it perfectly upright. The mix of foliage looks good as it grows. Daffodils flower in late winter to early spring. Bulbs are seasoned by the time tall astilbes reach their mature size -- about two to three feet high and wide.

Astilbes require a moist environment. Partial shade and eastern exposure will protect them from drying out. Astilbes, like daffodils, are good edge-of-woods plantings.

Fall weather is ideal for plant installation.

Roses get their best beginning if planted in November and mulched well with shredded bark, compost or other material. Garden centers are already reducing their stock for winter, so you might want to go mail order. Prepare rose beds now, while you wait for the stock to arrive. Dig two to three feet wide and deep for each rose to ensure good drainage. Water roots well when planting and during dry conditions. Keep graft on hybrid roses just above soil level.

Divide perennials to open up garden areas, create air circulation and make room for other perennials in spring.

To divide and transplant perennials, dig up and separate their roots. Dig a hole, add compost to the soil, place a division into the ground, and tamp the soil mixture around the transplanted flora. Water and lay mulch over the surface about two to three inches thick for winter protection.

Daylilies are easy to divide by cutting off root pieces and planting as described above. Hand-divide rhizomes of daylilies by washing soil from their roots. This will yield more plants and can, in the case of daylilies, produce larger, showier flowers.