Where to go, what to do in British Columbia

GETTING THERE

Nonstops flights are a rarity, but many airlines offer one-stop flights between Washington airports and Vancouver, B.C. American Airlines flies from Dulles to Vancouver International for about $620 round-trip. A dramatically cheaper way to go is to fly to Seattle (one-stop flights from Dulles start at $242) and take the airport Quick Shuttle bus to Vancouver. (The four- to five-hour bus ride costs $53.20 one way.)

GETTING AROUND

Most aboriginal tourism destinations, such as powwows and guided wilderness treks, are outside the city of Vancouver, so a car is essential. The airport Budget (800-268-8900; http://www.budget.com) rents mid-size cars with unlimited mileage for about $56 a day, including taxes and fees.

WHERE TO STAY

Vancouver, Shangri-La, 1128 W. Georgia St., 1-604-689-1120, http://www.shangri-la.com. A branch of the glitzy Asian chain housed downtown in the city's tallest building. Rooms start at about $258.

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa, 845 Hornby St., 1-800-663-0666, http://www.wedgewoodhotel.com. A boutique hotel with elegantly appointed rooms and walk-out balconies. Rooms from about $219.

Osoyoos, Spirit Ridge, 1200 Rancher Creek Rd., 1-877-313-9463, http://www.spiritridge.ca. Anchors Canada's swankiest aboriginal resort, a complex that embraces a winery, nine-hole golf course and aboriginal-themed day spa. One-bedroom suites from about $117.

Holiday Inn, 7906 Main St., 1-877-786-7773, http://www.holidayinosoyoos.com. Rooms from about $91.

WHERE TO EAT

Vancouver, Blue Water Cafe, 1095 Hamilton St., Vancouver; 1-604-688-8078, http://www.bluewatercafe.net. Housed in a restored warehouse in the hip Yaletown neighborhood. Specializes in inventive takes on such regional favorites as Arctic char with maitaki mushrooms and mountain caviar (about $27).

Osoyoos, The Patio, 1400 Rancher Creek Rd., 1-250-495-2985 A casual outdoor restaurant at winery Nk'Mip Cellars, with views of the lake and vineyards. Offers such pan-aboriginal cuisine as flatiron bison with fresh corn bread (about $16) and its signature NK'Mip Platter, which includes venison tenderloin and candied smoked salmon (about $20 for two people).

Passa Tempo, 1200 Rancher Creek Rd., 1-250-495-8007, http://www.passatemporestaurant.com Serves a grass-fed bison rib-eye (about $32) and more-conventional West Coast dishes such as pan-seared wild salmon (about $25).

WHAT TO DO

For a general listing of powwows in Canada and the United States ¿ including a Dec. 12-13 urban powwow in Vancouver ¿ visit www.gatheringofnations.com/powwows. Canada-specific powwow information can also be found at www.drumhop.com/capowwow.html.

Vancouver:

In and around town, powwows offer one of the best chances to experience traditional and contemporary aboriginal culture, but finding one isn't always easy. The site http://www.yagotta.ca offers a rough schedule and phone numbers for confirming exact dates and times.

Takaya Tours, 4310 Gallant Ave., North Vancouver; 1-604-904-7410, http://www.takayatours.com Offers kayak and canoe trips along Vancouver's scenic waterways led by members of the Tsleil-Waututh First Nation. Tours from $50 per person.

Osoyoos:

NK'Mip Cellars, 1400 Rancher Creek Rd., 1-250-495-2985, http://www.nkmipcellars.com. Offers daily tours and tastings starting at about $5.

NK'Mip Desert Cultural Centre, 1000 Rancher Creek Rd., 1-250-495-7901, http://www.nkmipdesert.com. Next door to the winery. Exhibits focus on Osoyoos Indian history, but the big draws are the guided tour into the surrounding desert and twice-daily shows with rattlesnakes. About $11, children about $7.50.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

http://www.aboriginalbc.com

-- R.S.