Patrick Bottex Vin du Bugey-Cerdon "La Cueille" Methode Ancestrale
** 1/2
Bugey, France, $22

Made primarily from gamay with a smattering of poulsard, this has a beguiling, effervescent pink color that brings to mind rose petals for the romantic, or wild salmon for the food-obsessed. The aromas and flavors offer strawberries, herbs and exotic spices. At 8 percent alcohol and moderate sweetness, this wine could delight as an aperitif or as a match for fruit-based desserts.

Kermit Lynch/Winebow: available in the District at Cork 'N Bottle, MacArthur Beverages, Potomac Wine & Spirits; on the list at Bistrot Lepic, Corduroy, Le Chat Noir. Downey Selections in Virginia: available at Cheesetique in Alexandria; on the list at Bastille in Alexandria, Bazin's on Church in Vienna, Willow in Arlington.

Domaine la Croix des Marchands Demi-Sec 2007
**
Gaillac, France, $18

It evokes apple cider, with cream and hazelnuts. At 11 percent alcohol, it has heft, good focus and complexity.

Firstvine.com: Internet sales only.

Consorzio dell'Asti, Asti Soprano, Dolce
* 1/2
Asti, Italy, $14

This wine hits all the high notes (sorry, couldn't resist), with red-fruit flavors of berries and currants. It has good acidity, too, which helps balance and lengthen the sweet finish.

Siema: available in the District at Capital Fine Wine & Spirits; available in Maryland at Italian Market in Gambrills, North Ridge Wine & Spirits in Ellicott City; available in Virginia at Curious Grape in Arlington.

Domaine des Terrisses "L'Authentique" Doux
* 1/2
Gaillac, France, $18

Labeled "Doux" for sweet, this undoubtedly will appeal to cider lovers, with its fat, mouth-filling flavors of Granny Smith apples.

Wine Traditions: available in the District at Cork Market; on the list at Cork Wine Bar. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, the Wine Cabinet in Reston; on the list at Bastille.