A city dweller's guide to Delaware, Maryland beaches: dining, coffee, bike tours

I'd always wanted to explore quaint Fenwick Island, so I ducked into Pottery Place, a strip-mall bijoux shop with a tiny but real coffee bar. Bleary-eyed, I ordered a Scarface (espresso pulled through with raw sugar and topped with skim milk) and spent the morning chatting with the friendly barista and reading the two major Sunday newspapers left out for guests. And then? I shopped. The store carries many finds (including Buddha sculptures, picture frames and modernist animal-themed sculpture) that won't run you much more than $30.

Sunshine Plaza, Coastal Highway, Fenwick Island. 302-539-3603. http://www.potteryplaceperks.com.

In Rehoboth Beach, regulars in search of a gourmet beach breakfast head to Cafe Papillon, a booth that hawks pastries, coffees and authentic crepes (with fillings such as Gruyere, walnuts and tomato, and Nutella and strawberries). Tucked into Penny Lane, a strip of quaint shops between Rehoboth and Wilmington avenues, the "cafe" brings in young French students to work the windows, making it feel like a little getaway in more ways than one.

42 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach. 302-227-7568. http://www.cafepapillon.com.

Go green

To burn some major calories, rent a bike and try Delaware's cycling path, which runs along Route 1. I rented one from Fenwick Islander Bike Shop (rentals run $10 to $30 for three hours) and took the five-mile trip to Bethany Beach. Next time, I'd probably rent the bike at the shop's Bethany location, Ocean Cycles (302-645-4544), where there are more opportunities to sightsee; the bike route can have some dull stretches. Either way, be sure to ask for a lock so you can stop along the way.

Route 1 and Virginia Avenue, Fenwick Island. 302-537-2021. http://www.fenwickbikes.com.

On my next trip to the shore -- there will definitely be another trip -- I plan on taking Coastal Kayak's guided eco-trips and cycling Assateague Island not only to see the ponies but also to check out indigenous plants and the salt marsh ($40-$50 a person); http://www.c-kayak.com.