Recommended rosés

The 2009 Vin Gris de Cigare from Bonny Doon Vineyards is not only a departure from previous vintages, but also from the prevailing style of New World rosé, which favors a dark pink color and a sappy finish, often with noticeable sweetness.

Some local wineries have been producing worthy rosés in recent vintages. Some that Dave McIntyre has enjoyed recently include Paradise Springs and Boxwood from 2009. Ingleside, Barboursville and Virginia Wineworks are also labels to look for.

Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2009
***
Central Coast, Calif., $18
(Great Value)

With just the slightest tinge of pink, this would be easy to mistake for a white wine. But then flavors of tangerine peel and strawberry emerge briefly before the wine reveals a surprisingly strong mineral core. Curious consumers can compare the old and new styles by searching out the 2008 vintage; the 2009 has only just arrived on the market, and the Maryland distributor is still selling the 2008.

Country Vintner in the District and Virginia; Bacchus in Maryland: Available in the District (2009) at Calvert Woodley, Whole Foods Market Glover Park; available in Virginia at Fern Street Gourmet and the Winery in Alexandria. Available in Maryland (2008, $13) at Dawson's Liquors in Severna Park, Eastport Liquors in Annapolis, Columbia Palace Wine & Spirits in Columbia, Rip's Wine and Spirit Shop in Bowie; on the list at the Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels.

Robert Oatley Rosé of Sangiovese 2009
** 1/2
Mudgee, Australia, $16
(Great Value)

Unfortunately, this wine is not widely available, but it should be. I generally am not a fan of Australian rosés, which tend to taste as though the winemakers were dumping steroids into the fermentation tanks. This one, however, shows restraint and remains fresh and invigorating on the palate.

Republic National: Available in the District at Morris Miller Wine & Liquor; on the list at Asia Nine, Art and Soul, Neyla. Available in Virginia (2008, $17) at Rick's Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria; on the list at Bastille in Alexandria.

Wolffer Estate Rosé Table Wine 2009
** 1/2
Long Island, N.Y., $15
(Great Value)

This is almost as pale as the Bonny Doon, perhaps because it is one-third chardonnay, with the rest merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Winemaker Roman Roth is not following a classic rosé model, but he has crafted a wine with excellent acidity and vibrant fruit.

Winebow: Available in the District at Dupont Market, Pearson's, Rodman's; on the list at Agraria, Blue Duck Tavern, Firefly, Founding Farmers, Vidalia.

Alexander Valley Vineyards Dry Rosé of Sangiovese 2009
**
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $14